The Hakf Breadth Plan
I drew a line below the keel and parallel to it . I then measured up 12.125' ( 1/2 of the moulded breadth) and drew another line parallel to the first one.
Next I extended the section lines and the 2 perpendiculars down to the very first line I drew. Everything I do next will fit into this rectangle. Oh Yes If you haven't done so drop a perpendicular from the intersection of the upper deck and the upper cabin frame to the first line as well.
I start with the forward curve. At the deadflat next to the calculated one draw an arc from the top of the perpendicular towards the fore of the ship down to the first line we drew. ( I will call this the base line).
Measure the distance of this arc along the base line 12.25'. ( refer to the drawing that I provide here) Now divide this length by7, this gives you 6 perpendiculars. Draw perpendiculars from each size ( 1.75') to the arc you created. Now I drew lines parallel to the base line from these points to the perpendiculars they correspond to. As an example the point of intersection at the very top of the arc goes to the section line next to the deadflat etc.
When that was done I created an arc by just connecting the ends. The last part of the arc connects to the inside of the rabbit.
The back half is done similar to the front. But first I had to find the length of the transom that fits there and also draw in its curve.
According to the definition the wing transom length is 2/3 the extreme breadth for all 1st and 2nd rates and all the rest 1 foot less.
2/3 x 25 - 1’ = 15.67’ for half breadth plan /2 = 7.84’
The curve of the transom is described as “ determined by the distance between the fore edge of sternpost and the after edge of the fashion piece”
For the actual size of the wing transom, another definition is: “ for thickness, breadth and the curve take as many 1” as the wing transom is broad in 1’” and another “ the wing transom is sided and moulded the same as the floor timbers” a lot to make sense of and a lot to choose from.
The floor timbers are 1.13’ x 10.2 “ so I made the wing transom 1.3’ x .85’ with a curve of 1.3’
I again assume there is no set rule that says a transom has to be exactly this size but it is really determined by the cant of the fashion piece.
From the intersection of the calculated deadflat I drew an arc from the sternpost to the 7.84’ line and this is the shape of the wing transom.
Once I determined the length, at the perpendicular in the half breadth plan for the intersection of the sternpost and transom I measured up 7.84’ and drew a line parallel to the base line to the arc. Then I made a perpendicular from this intersection down to the base line. Following what I did before I ended up with the curve to the back of the transom.
The next step is the top breadth line . (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)

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To do the next line I have to determine the Tunblehome of the ship. It is defined as 2" for every foot of length. 2" x 80 = 40" and because I am doing the half breadth plan I divided by 2 40" / 2 = 20" or 1.67'.
At the aft perpendicular of the wing transom I just finished ( the red line) I measured towards the base line 1.67' and drew a line to the perpenicular at the aft of the breadth plan. Then using the same point of radius, from the center of the calculated deadflat, I drew the curve from the bottom base line to the line of the tumblehome.
Like the previous example I drew an arc at the deadflat , drew the line from the tumblehome intersection to the arc, then a perpendicular from that point to the base line. I measured the distance and divided by the number of spaces and then drew perpendiculars from every distance to the arc, then parallel lines from every end point to their corresponding section line, then connected the ends to form the curve.
I repeated the steps for the front half. This is what it looks like finished. I hope your not confused. It really is quite simple. (open in a blank window)

 

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The Body Plan
If your like me, when I look at the body plan to begin tracing the individual frames I get confused at the amount of compactness around the Dead flat area. I found now that you can redraw individual frames simply and you don’t need cad to do it. Very simple math and the ship’s breadth allow you to redraw them.
I transferred all the lines from the Sheer draught that I need. I gave myself lots of room between the Sheer and the Body plan. Next I drew 3 perpendiculars. One center line and a perpendicular on either side spaced 12.25’ apart. Next at the center line I drew perpendiculars, one on either side of the center line .52'. This represents the keel. At the base of the keel I measured up 1.13' and drew a line, this represents the top of the keel. I put in the 3” rabbet at this time on either side. Above the keel I measured up .68' and drew another line, this represents the dead rise. You can add the false keel if you like.
Starting at station (2) this is a Dead flat frame.
From the sheer plan I made sure I transferred across the upper and lower maximum breadth lines, and the sheer line. BTW, I drew the numbered frames on the left hand side of the Body plan.
Now I measured on the half breadth plan the distance from the center line to the arc of the rising line at station (2). I transferred this from the center of the keel out, parallel to the base line. I created a perpendicular here.
Then I measured the distance between the two Breadth lines at station (2). This was 2.3’ and transferred this dimension to top of the perpendicular at the sheer line. Deanne does the upper sweeps of his body plan without the upper max. breadth line included. I used his method to determine the center of the upper sweep at the upper breadth line.
Ok so this is what you should have on the drawing.
Step 1: To determine the floor sweep take ¼ of the ships breadth. In this case ¼ of 24.5’ = 6.125’. At the rise of the floors perpendicular I measured up 6.125’ from the dead rise and drew the floor sweep.
Step 2: Next I took 7/9’s of the floor sweep 7/9 x 6.125 = 4.76’. At the lower breadth line at the far perpendicular I measured in 4.76’ and drew in the lower sweep.
Step 3: Next I took 20/36th’s of the breadth of the ship 20/36 x 24.5’ = 13.61’. This determines the reconciling sweep. At the intersection of the lower breadth line and far perpendicular, I drew an arc near the center line of the ship. Taking the same measurement and at the intersection of the base line and the rise of floors perpendicular I drew another arc that intersected the first arc. From here I drew the arc 13.61’ that blended the 2 previous arcs.
This is what I have so far.
This next step is where Deanne does not include the upper breadth line to do the sweeps. What I did was use his method and where it intersected the upper breadth line made the sweeps.
I took 17/18th’s of the half breadth 17/18 x 12.25 = 11.57’. At the lower breadth line I measured over from the outer perpendicular 11.57’ and made an arc here. From this intersection I drew another arc towards the left of the tumblehome area, 23.14’. I doubled the value. Next, from the intersection of the sheer line and the tumblehome mark I drew another arc with a radius of 11.57’ till it intersected the first arc. I drew a line between this intersection and the intersection of the lower breadth line and the 17/18th’s mark.
This is what I have.
Now I have the intersection at the upper breadth line that I can work from to get the upper sweeps. I determined from before that the tumblehome was 1.67’. At the sheer line and the far perpendicular I measured over and made an arc 1.67’.
Now I have the intersection at the upper breadth line that I can work from to get the upper sweeps. I created the upper sweep at the intersection of the upper breadth line and the diagonal I created before. Now I measured the arc at the diagonal of 7.08’. Again I doubled this measurement and then drew another arc towards the tumblehome area. Next I took the measurement of 7.08’ and made an arc from the tumblehome to that arc. At this intersection I drew a line connecting the 2 intersections like before. Now I created an arc from this intersection to the upper sweep. I trimmed everything and there is the section (2).
The only thing left to do is the line from the top of the rabbet to the intersection of the floor sweep and dead rise.
There is a very tiny sweep to this area. What has to happen is I had to draw off the tangent of the lower floor sweep to the rabbet. When you use cad you can set up osnap to register tangents of curves. When I did this the point is off from the intersection. When I do the other sections this became more prevalent as the radius for the lower floor sweep to the rabbet becomes bigger. For this frame I left it as a straight line from the tangent. If you use paper and pencil if you put your straight edge from the rabbet to the floor sweep this will automatically find the spot.
I will do another section with a more pronounced curve to show the math involved.



Having trouble posting photos. when I can upload I will add.

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here are the photos in order (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)

 

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To do section # 11
As before I transferred acroos from the sheer draught and the half breadth plan all relevant information.
This is what I have. section 11
I took 1/4 of the breadth 1/4 x 21.78 = 5.45'
I created the floor sweep at this point.
Next I took 7/9th's of the floor sweep 7/0 x 5.45 = 4.24'
I created the lower breadth sweep.
Next I created the reconciling arc 20/36 x 21.78 = 12.1'
You will notice it doesn't touch the floor sweep. Don't worry.
Next I created the upper sweeps.
I took 17/18th's of the half breadth 17/18 x 10.89 = 10.29'.
I measured over from the perpendicular at the lower breadth and made an arc . Then I doubled the figure and created an arc towards the upper left of the tumblehome. 20.58'
Then I measured over from the tumblehome and created an arc 10.29' I then joined the 2 intersections with a line. This created the intersection at the upper breadth line.
From this intersection I created the upper breadth sweep. I then measured this distance . 7.37'
Again I doubled this and created an arc to the left of the tumblehome at 14.74'. At the tumble home I created another arc to the left again at 7.37'. I connected the 2 intersections with a line.
At the top intersection I created an arc that touched the upper sweep. I trimmed everything. The upper section is done now for the lower sweeps.
LIke the previous examples or methods, The reconciling sweep measurement I doubled and created an arc towards the lower left of the section. 25.82'. At the top of the keel at the rabbet I created another arc in the same direction of 12.91'.
At the 2 intersections I connected with a line. I then created an arc from the lower intersection to the reconciling arc. I then trimmed everything.
Section 11 is complete.
I will finish off the remaining body plan sections and then work on the water lines. (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)

 

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Here is the completed body plan.
If you use this method to reproduce a body plan of another ship, check if the rising line is above the keel. If not you will notice for the lower sweeps from the keel to the floor sweep will not meet. It just means to use a straight line from the keel to the tangent of the floor sweep. (open in a blank window)

 

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Diagonals and Harpins
I have since added the diagonals on the body plan.
Since Coleman didn't add these I decided to so that I could loft the frames later. I need the lengths of the individual Futtocks.
The base or the first place to start are the floors. By definition they are 1/4 of the breadth, each side of the keelat the rise of the floors. 24.5 x 1/4 = 6.125
I measured over from the edge of the keel and drew a line 6.125', on both sides of the keel.
From here its depends on the size of the ship. By definition the 1st Futtock is 5 to 7' above the floor head. Since the Ontario is 80' I went with the 5' measurement.
The second Futtock is located 4 to 6' above the 1st Futtock, Again I chose the 4' mark.
The 3rd Futtock is located 4 to 6' above the 2nd Futtock, I chose the 4' mark.
The 4th Futtock is located above the 2nd Futtock to the top of side.
And the Top Timbers are located above the 3rd Futtock.
The other Diagonals are for the Ribbands and the Harpins.
They start off at the keel. The 1st is about 3' from the keel and the second Diagonal is located 18" below the floor head. Some authors speculate as to the importance of the first diagonal as the second is more important as it supports at the floor head.
Others are located in the middle of the diagonals between each head and heel of the Futtocks. Usually the diagonals are perpendicular to the side its cutting. ( more later)
Other diagonals are located 12" below each port and are located as well at the top breadth and top side of ship.
It varies between experts or authors. The diagonals can be 45 degrees or are started at the LWL mark and go to each respected point. Above the lowest maximum breadth mark they are started at the upper breadth and go to the respected marks.
I decided to not include them because the plan would be consummed by lines, so I only put the marks at the endge of the deadflats.
The authors all agree that their primary use is to check the fair of the frames anyway. Having doubled check and tripled checked my calculations, I am saatisfied that the body plan is complete. (open in a blank window)

 

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What I have next was the cant frames and the waterlines. Really no math involved here. (open in a blank window)

 

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I eliminated the cant frames. When I checked where the ports where I noticed these where off.Apparently the way that I was taught to do cant frames was wrong so I need to research this more.
The other thing I have done was add buttock lines. These will help to determine how fair the frames are and if I need to make any changes. I Do.
I have issues again with the stations 17, 18 and 19.
I set up a grid on the body plan and made sure I set up the same on the sheer and half breadth plans. I then transferred the intersection points to the half and sheer plan. I corrected the stations and the results are smooth. At least until I build her, then I will know for sure. (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)

 

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What is the name of Deanne's book please.
Thanks
Ed

 

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Hi Ed
Sorry for the delay been busy. Anyway I use Deanes Doctrine of naval Architecture of 1670.
This is not the only reference I use. You may also want to check out David Steele Naval architecture .
Dave

 

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Deck and Breasthooks
They are sided and moulded the same as the midship floors. 1.13' x .83' or 13.5" x 10"
The length is 5/8 of the extreme breadth of the ship 5/8 x 25 = 15.625' Measure from the center of the keel along the hull at the deck height 7.8125' on eather side to get the lengths.
I added the deckhook parallel with the deck line previously added. The other 2 Breasthooks are spaced evenly below the deckhook. I drew 2 lines. 1 at the top of the deckhook and the other from the intersection of the stem and the keel. From the intersection of these 2 lines I used the polar measurements dividing 90 degrees into 3 equal sections. 30 degrees. This is where I drew the other 2 breasthooks.
I drew the Breasthooks and the deckhook seperately for later condtruction, using the waterlines and the halfbreadth plan for the deckhook to give me my shape of them. Refer to the accompaning pic. (open in a blank window)

 

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