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I have seen a lot of posts both on this and other forums arguing whether super glue is better than white wood glue when building model ships.
I tend to use super glue these days as it is quick drying and it instantly holds peices together (Well almost instantly). I have seen posts which criticise this glue. Some authors feel that white glue is superior and others speculate whether super glue will last the test of time. I bought an HMS bounty model about 20 years ago and 90% finished it. Unfortunately I lost the remaining peices and it has sat on top of my wardrobe gathering dust ever since. The model has been neglected but it has sat in a dry room away from direct sunshine. Having recently finished the Mantus ship HMS Racehorse I decided to get The Bounty down and finish it. As soon as I touched the model bits started to fall off. It was clear that the wood glue I had used was failing after 20 years. I don't remember the brand of glue I used but it was definitely good quality white carpenters glue. I was surprised to find that most of the joints were so weak that they fell apart when touched and the glue residue had turned a dark chestnut brown, locally staining the wood the same colour. On the above evidence I will continue to use super glue on all my models. It may not last 20 years, but then neither did the white glue, so I recon its worth the risk. Best wishes John |
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Hello John
I was told by a guy who owns model shop that a drop of super glue on top of the white wood glue makes for a really strong joint. I doubt wether I'll be around in twenty years time to find out :-) Good luck on your next project. Harold. |
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I use both. If I'm planking a deck or a flat surface, assembling hull sections on the keel, I use wood glue. If I am using metal on wood then I tend to use super glue. Wood glue gives you an opportunity to move things around before they set which can be advantageous in some cases, where as super glue set's right now.
If I have a twisting or bending situation that's difficult to get a clamp on it, I'll use super glue. I think it depends on what you're doing and the application. I would suspect that your model's joints failed because the wood dried out and shrank and pulled the joints apart rather than the glue being the culprit. After 20 years in a closet, I would come unglued too...LOL.
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Hi Don
You may be right about the wood shrinking, but the really surprising think is the way that the glue had turned dark brown and stained the surrounding wood. White glue dries an invisiable clear colour, but it would seem that it can discolour with age. Best wishes John |
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I once read of a technique that might help prevent this from happening. The author worked for Aeropiccola back in the early 1980's. He described a technique where the builder builds the shell of the hull without putting in place the decks. Then, mixing a bowl of white glue and water, soak bandage gauze and spread it throughout the interior of the hull shell. Allow it to dry, then repeat the process. After drying, then affix the decking and proceed as usual. the gauze web will help hold all planks in place in perpetuity, or so he said. I have done so with every ship I have built since, and it seems to work well. It also prevents shrinkage of the wood over the years.
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I've done something similar but haven't bothered with the gauze.
For wood-to-wood glue I've switched over from ordinary white glue to Aleene's range of products and I've brushed the inside of a hull with their Clear Gel Tacky Glue to help bind the planking. I've never had any problem with seepage between planks as this variant is true to it's name and dries completely clear. I pick it up at my local Walmart.
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If at first you don't succeed...look in the trash for the instructions!
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I'll check it out. Which department has it?
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At my local store it's in the Crafts section.
As well as the Clear Gel, I use the Quick Dry and most of all the Fast Grab... I find that all three of them really do live up to their names. They also work very well on sails. The common size is 4 oz. but if you shop around you can find 8 0z. bottles as well.
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Interesting note about glue colors. I agree about Aleene's glues, but I have been using Titebond III; it dries a light brown that goes with most woods. I use a plastic syringe of about 2 ounces as an applicator and temporary storage, keeping it open with a pin or wire. Apparently Titebond III reacts with metals over time while its liquid. When I got tired of replacing the brass wire I was using when it got eaten up, I tried a stainless T-pin. Shortly after, I moved to a phase which didn't require gluing. When I went back to the glue after maybe three months I found it had eaten away at the pin and turned a beautiful BLACK, still useable and just right for mounting gun barrels on their carriages.
Chazz |
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I'll check out Walmart today. But, I have been using the gause method for so long that I might try using Aleene's with gauze. I am almost done with planking the Constructo HMS Pandora, so I have an opportunity to try something new.
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