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When I first started my current project, 2+ years ago, everything went fairly well until got to the 2nd planking. I had issues figuring out how to hold the plank in place while it made several compound bends without it shrinking or getting marks from pins. I set it aside several times and eventually left it for over a year.
After spending that time thinking on the subject, I decided to bring heat into the mix as I'd seen the various plank benders. I just couldn't see how to get the compound curves satisfactorily with the plank off of the hull. I won't go through the whole discovery process, but here is what I ended up doing with a good degree of satisfaction: I applied a good coat of Elmer's while glue over the whole hull and let it dry. Then I took my plank and wetted a few inches. Laid it in place and then started running over it with the hair curling iron (it's what i had on hand ). The magic of it all is that the steam pushed through the wood to the white glue, activated it and then dried it all in fairly short order. Then I would use a brush to wet the next couple of inches and repeat. Areas of more complicated bends took a few cycles of water and ironing. In the end I was able to do more successful work in 3-4 hours over 2 days than I had done in the 18 months previous. I can't say that this is an original approach but I can say I came upon the idea on my own. Maybe this will help someone else who is suffering the same frustration I was. For my next ship I'll buy one of these to make the whole process even smoother/easier: Sealing iron |
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That certainly is quite a novel way of doing it.
Very often, second layer planking can indeed be the trickiest part of a build... with the first layer usually being thicker and more forgiving and usually able to be nailed in place. Plus any mistakes get to be hidden. Over the course of a lot of builds I've found that what works best for me, after any shaping and or wetting, is to use small strips of masking tape to hold a plank in position while the glue dries. I also use Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue as it certainly lives up to it's name and quite quickly grabs the plank very firmly enough to be able to remove the tape when the next plank is ready. I get the glue at my local Walmart.
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Your method using Elmers is beautifully creative and cheap.
I have utilised this same method only using Titebond Medium glue this is a cynoacrylic superglue, that your have to use sparingly which bonds within 20 seconds of application. Utilise wax paper on your workbench when working with this material, I generally dab a drop of it onto a scrap piece of cardboard and apply with the end of a pin, you can also utilise a toothpick. Landlubber7 Henry |
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I run superglue down the backside of the plank and start the application at one end, guiding and pressing the plank against the first layer as I work down it. Soak it first if you have to bend it and prebend it first if the bend is severe. Wet material doesn't seem to bother the glue...
I like your idea. I've done something like it. |
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I've always been a fan of "right glue for the job" but never thought of Aleen's. I've got plenty of the regular tacky but none of the fast grab. I'll pick up some for the future.
I have nightmares about models and superglue. I'm afraid of doing more harm than good with CA. At least with the PVA glues you can soak it and re-glue. Fun fact: gel CA glue works just fine even underwater. The water will help it set a little faster but it does cloud it a bit. |
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Jim:
Thanks for the tip, i'll incorporate your metheod into the mix. Landlubber7 Henry |
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A bit more info...
It works better if your planks aren't too long. If the bend is severe, I start bending the plank on something round, like a glass. Then decrease the size of the "glass" to get a more severe bend. Soak the wood first. Think in terms of stretching out the fibers. Apply the glue in the same direction you will apply the plank. This way the end of the plank will have the glue that has dried the least. When the plank is in place, I apply pressure with all 8 fingers spread from begining to end of the plank. It helps it to stick across the entire length. Planks at the bow should be stuck at the bow first (sometimes I let it dry there) and then bent aft. If I let it dry first (about an inch or so at the keel), then I apply glue to the rest of the plank after it has dried at the keel. It is much easier to get the plank to be in position to the keel this way. disclaimer: I've only buildt 3 ships, so I'm no expert. But this works well for me. |
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Quote:
Love it.
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Hi:
In addition to the usual glues, there are also some odd ones that serve special purposes. Miocromark sells Liquid PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive). You put it on one or both parts and let it dry...at least 10 minutes or so; longer is OK. Then just press the now dry parts together and they stick. There's some forgiveness,at least for small parts. It's real good for moldings, window mullions and acetate and such. No smears or drips. Another one is FABRITEK used by dressmakers to stick pieces and hems together. It's like a strong rubber cement without most of the sniff characteristics. I used it to fix the rope to the edges of sails but I tested it on some wood parts and it holds strongly. I dilute it about half and half with acetone. A third one is Gum Arabic. It's used by bead (necklace beads) crafters to point their stringing cords, (and to stick on false beards for costumes). I find it to be a good short term light glue for temporarily sticking parts together to shape them all at once. It comes apart easily, is water soluble, and doesn't mess your hands. Chazz |
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I seem to have solved all my bending problems with the Amati bending tool. For those who want to get over the first planking with, maybe, some errors which can be filled, this tool is ideal. The second planking, being thinner is more amenable to heat treatment. Thanks for the good idea. Jonathan.
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