I'm on my second attempt in building the AL Independence; the first attempt aborted when I realized my hull wasn't built correctly. Briefly, when it came time to install the rudder, it simply didn't line to the keel where it was supposed to. I seemed to have added an extra plank below the transom. Don't know what happened and still don't, but I plan on being much more careful next time. In addition, in retrospect, I planked the hull incorrectly as well, not following the instructions to plank only a few at a time and an even amount on each side. My error yielded a keel so curved it would have been impossible to fix. It was warped to begin with but being inexperienced, I figured I could fix it later. NOT! Having learned from those mistakes and purchased two books on model shipbuilding, I'm determined to build this thing and so I ordered another kit. On the positive side I have more spare parts than I could hope for!

So. My question is this. Now that I'm familiar with the building sequence, is it reasonable to assume that I may build the masts and spars before building the hull? My reason is that I think that I'd rather build the hull in the warm weather when the humidity is high here on the east coast of the US. My first hull was built in the dead of dry winter and I'm not sure this didn't contribute somewhat to the warping of the false keel and the bulkheads assembly. I'd rather build those critical steps in high humidity and with thoroughly soaked and flat plywood from the kit.

I can't think of any reason not to build the masts and spars first, but then I thought the first build wouldn't be a problem either. Suggestions and tips for this kit will be most appreciated.

The best lesson learned here is time, time, time, take lots of time. I don't care if it takes me a year or more, I will build this one correctly. Thanks. Best, Bob in Delaware

 

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Bob

I don't think there's anything wrong with the order of construction you propose.

To this, I'd add a couple of thoughts:

1- while starting with a flat keel is a good idea, the keel is sufficiently flexible that it can easily be warped while planking. I've done it, apparently you have, one way or another, too. Clamp it straight and plank carefully alternating side to side. Try not to force things in such a way that uneven stresses build up in the planked skin as you work.

2-I'm not sure what you mean by "thouroughly soaked". If you mean that the keel is at the roughly the same level of saturation as the high humidity summer air, then fine. That's the way to go. On the other hand, I'm skeptical about "soaking" any part of the assembly. Soaked wood swells and then shrinks as it drys.

An interesting note is the fact that a typical plank (or 2/4, etc.) will shrink much more across it's width than along it's length. For example, I'd expect a plank an 1/8th of an inch wide and 4 inches long to shrink a couple thousands of an inch accross it's face but less than a thousandth of an inch in length. This is a basic property of wood. This means that saturated wood that shrinks in place is much more likely to open the joints between the planks than to warp the hull.

In any case, on with the modeling, and as you note, take your time, don't force things and certainly enjoy the experience.

Jim

 

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Jim,

Thanks for your tips.

I've always thought soaking the wood lent flexibility to bending around tight curves, and I've used that technique before, though in retrospect, the wood should be permitted to dry before gluing. That's something I have to pay more attention to.

As for soaking the keel and bulkheads, my thoughts are to soak them, then place heavy weight on each piece and let stand for a few days, hoping to straighten any warp and drying it that way at the same time. Does that make sense?

Thanks again for the help. Best, Bob

 

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Hi Bob

I do read a lot of concern about warped keels out here, but tend to think that it's a bit excessive. I think if you can hold the keel reasonably straight in a jig when you start the planking process, you'll have accomplished what you need.

If the keel if visably warped, especially if it's twisted, some steaming or wetting and controlled drying may be in order. In that case, since the wood and it's grain will have a bit of memory, you might even over bend the keel, blocking it to bend a bit the other way in the hope that it will "snap back" toward a near straight shape. Just don't worry about making it perfectly flat.

The keel, while it may be the single largest piece of wood in a model, is simply too flat, thin and flexible to have any effect once planking starts. On the other hand, unevenly stressed planking, given the long lever of the bulkheads can easily twist the keel. That's one reason many modelers block the bulkheads before starting planking.

Jim

 

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If the kit is plank on bulkhead, I would expect the glued planks to keep the keel straight if you start straight (once straightened and dried). You could also keep the bulkheads in place and stop the keel from warping again by placing battens between each bulkhead before planking.
Alan

 

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Thanks folks for your replies; I think I'm better prepared to build the second hull. You've given me some things to think about. In the meantime I think I'll begin building the masts and spars first, just to wait for some warmer weather here in the mid-Atlantic, before I begin the hull. Thanks again mates. Best, Bob

 

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