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Hello
Is anyone currently working on the Phantom? I'm trying to mark my waterlines and I'm not getting anything that looks close to the pictures I've seen on this site. Any suggestions? This is my first model and I'm trying not to screw it up. Thanks Mike |
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Hello Mike!
If you are using Chuck Passaro's Practicum on building the Phantom he gives a very short explanation on marking the waterline. It reads: "Before applying the plates to the hull, the waterline needs to be drawn onto it. A working cradle was made out of scrap wood and molding I found in my basement. The bow of the ship was elevated to give me the appropriate angle to create the waterline. Take this angle from the plans. A simple homemade tool was used to draw this onto the hull after carefully taking the time to establish the proper height of the water line along the hull from bow to stern. This procedure will be demonstrated in class. Once drawn on the hull, another line was drawn 1/8" immediately beneath it to indicate the top band of plates. This will be the final belt of plates adhered to the hull." It not much to go by, but if you will place marks, measuring down on the bow back to the stern, from the top of the bulwarks to where the plans indicate the waterline should be, this will give you an approximation of the waterline. Then you need to securely cradle your ship at the angle that would keep these marks level and then use your waterline marker to draw a line that will connect all the previous marks you made. Now weather you make your own waterline maker or buy one is a personal preference. Making one is as simple as getting a block of wood that is nice and square and tall enough so that you can secure a pencil at the correct height. This is how I've marked all my waterlines, I hope it helps you to better understand the process. Steve
------------Members' Signature------------
Steve
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Hi Mike,
I'm also building the Phantom and it's my first as well. I marked my waterline much like Steve described. I used the plans to measure how far down the stem the waterline should be at the front and made another mark at the stern in the correct spot. Then I propped my hull upside down on my workbench on two pieces of wood so that by sliding them forward and backward I could raise and lower the bow and stern independently of each other. I used a block of wood with a fine Sharpie marker taped to it, raised the bow until the mark I'd made there met the tip of the marker, did the same at the rear and then ran the block/marker all the way around the hull while holding it down firmly. Dan |
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Thanks Steve
Yes, I've been using Chuck Passaro's Practicum until I found this site. Now I have some good pictures to work off. Not to mention some advice. It sounds like I'm going down the right path. I was measuring my mark lines off the plans last night. I got to the end of one side and it just didn't look right. Maybe once I have the mark across the hull it'll look okay. Worst case scenario is I sand off the pencil mark and do it again. Thanks again. Automerged Post: Thanks Dan. Are you coppering the hull now? How's that going? Mike |
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Hi Mike,
Yes, I'm coppering the hull now. It's going OK I guess. I'm putting on individual plates cut from the tape and it's been tough for me to keep the vertical seams lined up on the alternate rows of plates. I'm just hoping that nobody will notice or look at it too closely. Next time I might try putting the tape on in long strips and scribing the vertical seams, I think it would look better and probably more in scale. I just ordered another roll of the tape this morning, it looks like I'm going to come up a little short. I'll be glad when this part is done and I can start working on some of the topside details! Dan |
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Looks good. I take it you painted the hull before coppering the hull? You've made more progress then me.
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I am just a little further along than you but you'll catch up fast at the rate I'm going. I did decide to paint my hull before coppering, I figured the tape would stick better to a smooth surface than it would to bare wood. My kit is quite old and the hull is mahogany which is a bit grainier than basswood so I put a couple of thinned coats of wood filler on it too. Wasn't sure how the tape would do over that either.
Have you cut your scuppers yet? Before you do it by drilling, cutting and filing, give a thought to cutting out the sections of bulwark directly over the scuppers, removing material from the bottom of the sections and then gluing them back into place. I did mine that way and they turned out very neat and sharply defined. Dan |
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Sorry if I should not post in here. I am doing the Phantom to and cannot tell from plans how deep into side the step needs cut. I look at the pictures to but cannot tell. Can you help please? Very new to this.
Gracias, Jacal......no not Jackal. Said lke JaCall |
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Hi Juan,
I assume the "step" you are refering too is at the top of the bulwarks. If so, it is about 1/32" deep. Are you using Chuck Passaros practicum? If not, it's available as a free download from Model Expo. I highly recommend it.
------------Members' Signature------------
Dennis
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Quote:
I have Chucks guide. I cut to much. Gracias, Jacal |
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