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12-24-2007, 12:42 PM
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Virginia Swift 1805
High All
Happy Holidays My name is Brad also. I am working the Swift myself (first wooden ship). Following the directions given with the kit, it says to do all the hull planking (both layers) first then the bow, keel, and stern pieces. Well I find that the bow piece supplied is not the same size as the keel. Bow stem starts at 3.5mm at the top and tapers down to approx. 3mm at the bottom, while the keel and stern pieces are both 5mm all the way. Do I have a bad bow stem piece or am I supposed to taper the keel to match the bow? If tapering is required HOW!!! I see that Brad1701 installed the keel etc. before the hull planks did I screw up or is following the direction the wrong thing to do? Any help will be appreciated. I will be posting more questions with photos later. Its Christmas eve and I have to run. Thanks again |
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12-25-2007, 02:54 AM
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Re: Virginia Swift 1805
Brad:
Sounds like your plans call for a "false keel" a process where you plank the hull first (allowing a space for the false keel to be placed after planking that will be 2mm deep. If your planks are 2mm thick then your false keel, when placed, will be 3mm deep x 5mm wide. You could then slightly taper the forward part of your false keel into the shear water (which you say is 3mm at the bottom). The taper will gradually disapear, so that your false keel will be the same width as your stern piece. You may want to check the specified width of your rudder to see if it is 5mm thick or 3mm thick. If it is 3mm, then the aft part of the false keel will have to be tapered also. If this is your first build, then following the steps in the instructions would be less stressful. If you intend to copper the bottom, your can taper the parts to fit and fill any gaps with the wood filler of your choice and the copper will hide all your "mistakes" It sounds as though Brad1701 chose to do his with a different process, you didn't "screw up". Do your instructions call for a "rabbet"? (an angling of the keel before planking). Tapering can be accomplished by carving,sanding,grinding, or any combination of these. Hope this helps.
------------Members' Signature------------
"Tactum illegitimi non carborundum
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12-26-2007, 02:16 AM
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Re: Virginia Swift 1805
Hi James. Thanks for the reply. I am not sure if we are talking the same thing here. I am working on the Artesania Latina version of this model. The plans do call for a false keel. The depth is not an issue here it is the width of the bow stem. I am going to try to attach a drawing of the piece I received with the kit. The drawing shows an outline of the bow stem. It tapers down the piece sideways (the thickness not the depth), the plans call for a 5mm thick bow stem the same as the keel and rudder post, (these two pieces are 5mm thick). It looks to me (not knowing) that the piece is wrong. The material is Bokapi. Questions: Can I get this piece replaced from Al? Buy new stock and make it (then where)? Can I substitute the material with something else (what)? Tapering the keel just doesn't seem that it would look correct.
Thanks again |
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12-26-2007, 04:45 AM
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Re: Virginia Swift 1805
Brad:
OK, got it. AL will replace items (process may be slow, coming from Europe). Find their website and go from there. If you bought from a hobby shop, ask them to help with the replacement process. If you bought from Model Expo, they have a free replacement service. In the meantime you can replace with material of your choice, boxwood is a wood of choice for quite a few modelers; It can be obtained in any hobby shop or craft stores like Michael's and it takes a stain well, to match the color of you stock wood. Or: You can "shim" the piece you have at the bottom and "fair" it to shape with a file, sandpaper, etc. so as to be 5mm at the bottom. 1mm at the top will disappear when you place the bowsprit, etc. in place. If you copper the bottom, the copper will cover any sign of the shim. Or: If you don't copper you can do like the real ships; you can cut off the bottom and "scarf" a 5mm piece to the top 4mm piece. The scarf joint is not a straight cut, sort of "zig zagged" to ensure strength. Hope I made myself clear in this. Let me know what you decide.
------------Members' Signature------------
"Tactum illegitimi non carborundum
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12-30-2007, 01:32 AM
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Re: Virginia Swift 1805
Hi Brad,
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I was out-of-town. I completed an AL Swift a little over a year ago and I don't recall a problem with different thicknesses of stock for the stem, keel and stern post pieces. As I recall, in my kit the stem, stern post and rudder all came from the same billet which was the same thickness as the keel piece that was supplied. Be that as it may, if you have a different thickness in your stem piece then it seems to be a manufacturer error and you will need to deal with it somehow. Jim has some good suggestions for adding stock to each side of the stem piece and that would probably be the easiest and most effective. The big consideration is how you intend to finish your hull. If you intend to have a natural finish, you will need to replace the piece with either identical wood or with something very similar in color when finished. If you can't find bokapi (and you probably can't, at least not easily) then your other alternative is to replace all four pieces...stem, keel, stern post and rudder... with some other readily available wood, such as cherry or walnut. If you intend to paint the hull then you could replace just the stem piece with any wood of appropriate thickness. Since you would be painting it, the color of the wood is unimportant and basswood would probably be a good choice since it's readily available and easy to work. Yes, on the AL Swift the instructions do call for completing both layers of planking before you attach the stem, keel and stern post. This seems to be a method that is unique to this particular model...at least in my experience. When you get to a second and later POB models, you will find that you will be attaching those pieces to the center keel first and then cutting a rabbet in the center keel (in most cases) which your hull planking will rest in. I wouldn't concern myself about that right now on this particular model. Just go with the AL instructions and if you are patient and careful you will wind up with a perfectly acceptable model. Later on you will learn the other method and you can apply it to your next model. Hope this helps.
------------Members' Signature------------
Best Wishes Bob B. Nautical Society of Oregon Model Shipwrights Completed: A-L Swift, MS AVS Under Construction: USS Syren
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02-19-2009, 07:16 PM
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Re: Virginia Swift 1805
Hi all, I'm a newby working on the AL Swift and would like to know when the real keel should be attached, the instructions in my old (1982 version) kit only mention the part 37 in the first paragraph! I'm about to start deck planking and have managed so far, thanks to the additional instructions through this list.
Tapering frames to a point and the false keel to which the frames are attached, as per instructions, seems to make it impossible to attach the real keel. Have I missed something? Terry_g. Australia. 
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08-07-2009, 07:27 PM
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Re: Virginia Swift 1805
Hello to all. My name is Bruce, and I have no experience at ship modeling. I was given a 1982 version of AL's le hussard 1848 never opened. I'm posting to this thread as it is more recent than others, and contains some info to my question. The scant written instructions say to attach the false stem, stern and keel to the keel bulkhead after the placement of the initial hull planks (2mm x 5mm), but before placement of the final planking (.6mm x 5mm). The plans on the other hand, seem to show attaching the false stem, stern, and keel after the final planking. Is one of these better than the other? What amount of difficulty is it to cut thru the planks to make a slot of proper width to set the 3 parts into?
Thanks for any replies. |
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