| Seasons Greetings from the Ship Modeling Forum |
Click on Rudolph for a special message from Santa!!! OR Click on the Christmas House to see all of the new tools and kits Santa's going to bring you!!!
Articles
| Books
| Photo Gallery
| Forum Posting Pages
| Downloads
| Links
| Stats
| Glossary
| Amazon Store
| New to the hobby?
| Navigation
|
|
|||||||
| Share this Thread | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
01-15-2005, 11:29 PM
|
||||||
|
||||||
Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
This is a thread specific to the Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways, but relevant comments from other modeling experiences are welcome.
freewheelinguy and I are both in the early stages with this model, which seems to be nearly as common as a Bluenose. He made mention of the great customer service from Model Expo, replacing a broken bulkhead, and after we exchanged some emails on the topic, we agreed to start this thread to share what we'd discussed and open it up for more to join in. My next post contains the messages we've exchanged up to this point. - Tom
------------Members' Signature------------
When we recall the past, we usually find that it is the simplest things - not the great occasions - that in retrospect give off the greatest glow of happiness. - Bob Hope
|
||||||
| ||||||
|
01-15-2005, 11:30 PM
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
=================================================
1/13/2005, 3:12pm From tomse3 To freewheelinguy I saw from your post in the Model Shipways thread that you'd broken a bulkhead when working on the Armed Virginia Sloop. I think you and I are at nearly the same stage on the same model ... My next step is to put in the deck beams for the subdecks, before starting the planking. This will be my first "serious" wooden ship model, so I'm doing a lot of study. I, too, broke bulkheads ... and I figured out how to repair them. Bulkheads A and B have particularly vulnerable extensions. I ended up cutting them off in a straight line that extended below deck level about an inch, gluing in some of strip wood and sanding back to the right profile. I did something similar for bulkhead extensions that were severly out of line ... sometimes by gluing additional wood (such as basswood plank) and sanding away most of the original; sometimes just replacing the whole thing. A major bonus to this fix is that the grain of the bulkhead extensions is running the right way ... some of those laser-cut bulkhead extensions have grain at 45 degrees to the direction of the extension, making them very weak. I also broke a bulkhead where it joined the keel .. snapped it right in half. At that point I decided to follow some of the advice I'd read on planking. I went to Michael's and bought a bag of mixed balsa stuff, and glued filler blocks between all the bulkheads. This not only reinforced the whole structure, but sanding them down helped guide the correct beveling of the bulkhead edges, making for more sure planking. I'll still be fastening the planks primarily to bulkheads, but I won't have to worry about planks showing discrete bends around them. I've found that learning how to repair broken pieces is a major way to boost my modeling skills. Drop me a line if you have any questions or problems. I may not have an answer, but at least I'll know where you're coming from. - Tom ================================================= 1/14/2005, 12:07pm To tomse3 From freewheelinguy Yes, I think we're just about at the same stage of construction. This is my first attempt, also of a plank on bulkhead model. Don't know if you know about this site, but I'm building mine using a Practicum developed for this model at website http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/ It's been very helpful. It's his approach of how to successfully build this and other models. Don't know if you have mounted the subdeck yet, but I can tell you it's very fragile. Broke off numerous edge pieces while fairing the hull. Happy shipbuilding, Len ================================================== 1/14/2005, 5:15pm From tomse3 To freewheelinguy I was wondering about that Practicum, since I'm a relative beginner too. They also sell a CD of pictures of the process ... any recommendation there? I'm half way through installing the subdeck beams, but I've already done most of the hull fairing as part of the balsa filler block work between bulkheads. Actually, "filler block" is a bit of a misnomer. The stern portion has blocks that completly fill the space between the bulkheads, but for the rest I just used diagonal blocks that would fill between the keel and the deck line. After I finished sanding the blocks, I smeared some DAP lightweight spackle over the hull and sanded it after it dried. This gave me a first-cut at fairing the hull; I then addressed out-of-alignment bulkheads, re-spackled and re-sanded. I'm pretty happy with the result, although it's ugly. Glad it'll be planked. So, given that, do you think I'll have problems with the subdeck? I'm wondering if we should share this thread with the rest. Would you like to start one? Would you like me to start one? Or would you rather leave it as private? ================================================== = 1/14/2005, 8:03pm To tomse3 From freewheelinguy I have no problem sharing these messages with anyone. Might be helpful to others. Not sure about the photo CD's and what they contain, but I highly recommend the Practicum. They may contain only the photo's of this prac or maybe more detail. Once we mounted the bulkheads we added the subdecks which gave rigidity to them. Then we faired the hull. He had us do the rabbet for the keel differently then instructed in the plans. On his webpage he gives a sample chapter for each ship. Our ship has Chapter 3. I'm in Chapter 1 adding the bow filler blocks. If you send me your email I can forward this Chapter, this will give you a good idea of how he did the ship up to where we are. I can also take pictures of what I've done so far.
------------Members' Signature------------
When we recall the past, we usually find that it is the simplest things - not the great occasions - that in retrospect give off the greatest glow of happiness. - Bob Hope
|
||||||
| ||||||
|
01-16-2005, 10:40 AM
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
You're right that the model's in need of support in the early stages. Using the subdeck for that support is a risky approach, but the Practicum you're following has a stated constraint of building the kit as-is, so I guess that was their only option.
I'm attaching a shot of the balsa "filler block" approach I garnered from this website's 12-step article on planking. I took the cheap route and, except for the first bow and last three stern slots, just used diagonal balsa blocks to stretch from the bearding line toward the deck level. I have to admit that I'm cutting corners here (literally  ). I was trying to stretch my supply of balsa.When I decided to go this route, I realized two things: 1) it would slow me down a lot; and 2) that's not a bad thing. The process of building the model is my main joy, so anything that would stretch the time (while still making visible progress) would help me savor the experience even more. Kinda like mileage ... more enjoyment per kit dollar. It took a while, but I got lots of experience "fine tuning" blocks thicknesses to fit between the bulkheads. - Tom
------------Members' Signature------------
When we recall the past, we usually find that it is the simplest things - not the great occasions - that in retrospect give off the greatest glow of happiness. - Bob Hope
|
||||||
| ||||||
|
01-16-2005, 11:02 AM
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
The attached picture shows the hull after spackling and sanding. You can see where it filled out areas that would have been too low. It really gives me a lot more confidence that my planking will follow the right lines, particularly in the bow and stern.
Ben Lankford, who did the drawings and instruction book for the Model Shipways kit, also sells a book called "How to Build First-rate Ship Models From Kits". I got it as part of a "package deal" when I bought this kit. I used the kind of spackle he recommends in that book: DAP Lightweight Spackling ("Fast 'N Final") It goes on with minimal mess, cleans up with water and doesn't crack or shrink. Its finished consistency is approximately that of balsa, which is both good and bad. On the up side, it makes for consistent sanding between bulkheads. On the down side, it's vulnerable to later knicks and scratches, but since it's going to be planked over, that's not a real worry. - Tom
------------Members' Signature------------
When we recall the past, we usually find that it is the simplest things - not the great occasions - that in retrospect give off the greatest glow of happiness. - Bob Hope
|
||||||
| ||||||
|
01-16-2005, 03:38 PM
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
Quote:
------------Members' Signature------------
There's no such thing as a stupid question.
Members, need help or have a question about using the site? Use the Site Issues Help Desk (open in a blank window)  All others can use the Contact Us Page (open in a blank window)
|
||||||
| ||||||
|
01-17-2005, 10:20 AM
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
Hi Tom,
That's great what you did. I'm also feeling apprehensive in sending Chapter 1. I'll be posting a picture of my model once I complete chapter one. Your model looks great, but it looks like a lot of extra work. Adding the subdeck did add alot of rigidity to the bulkheads and made it fairly easy to fair them. And your right, it's not about finishing fast but the enjoyment of the experience. Len
|
||||||
| ||||||
|
01-17-2005, 05:02 PM
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
OK, I'm officially ready to start the planking. When I realized I'd done all the prep work, I grabbed my camera and snapped things just as they were, to document the transition. I didn't mean it to look like an ad for Titebond II. I'd just finished putting in the subdeck and waterways, it just happend to be sitting there when I took the shot.
I have to admit that I prefer to limit my CA use to small things that are hard to clamp and won't be stressed. CA is so brittle that I am a bit leery of it when working with wood, since wood "moves" with changes in humidity. I like the longer open time that Titebond gives me ... I can apply glue to both surfaces without hurrying. The clamping time can be minimized if I keep the glue on each surface to just a very thin smear (the less glue in the joint, the stronger to bond). I let each surface air dry for up to a minute before I press them together. When I glued in the subdeck and waterways, I could hand-press the pieces for the couple of minutes it took for the glue to set, and "fine tune" the alignment where needed during that time. When cured, the glue remains slightly rubbery, so it continues to hold even if the wood moves. Len, the kit's instructions say to start planking with the transom and counter. Is that what your practicum does too?
------------Members' Signature------------
When we recall the past, we usually find that it is the simplest things - not the great occasions - that in retrospect give off the greatest glow of happiness. - Bob Hope
|
||||||
| ||||||
|
01-17-2005, 07:53 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
In his instructions he starts with a 1/4inch plank (1/8inch above and below the subdeck) starting at the bow beveling it and placing into the rabbet and running aft using the provided pins to secure to bulkheads. Prior to doing this he puts a centerline on the inside of the plank, so you can see that your centered. He says he starts here because its the weakest point on the bulkheads. This is different than the plans. Then he mounts a 1/8inch plank above this, adds the waterways inside, then planks the transom. Hope this helps. I've finished Chapter 1 and am posting photo's once I finish this email. Take care, Le | |||||
