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| View Poll Results: What Model Shipways kit would you like to use your “free” Phantom credit towards? | |||
| Benjamin Latham |
  
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7 | 6.80% |
| Bluenose |
  
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7 | 6.80% |
| Charles W. Morgan |
  
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8 | 7.77% |
| USS Constitution |
  
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18 | 17.48% |
| Emma C. Berry |
  
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4 | 3.88% |
| Pride of Baltimore |
  
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4 | 3.88% |
| Prince de Neufchatel |
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8 | 7.77% |
| Rattlesnake |
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12 | 11.65% |
| Armed Virginia Sloop |
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13 | 12.62% |
| Willie Bennett |
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1 | 0.97% |
| Dapper Tom |
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2 | 1.94% |
| Fair American |
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2 | 1.94% |
| Sultana |
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11 | 10.68% |
| Glad Tidings |
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2 | 1.94% |
| Other |
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8 | 7.77% |
| Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 103. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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09-25-2006, 06:57 PM
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Phantom 1868
Well, here goes. This post is the beginning of what I hope will be a useful and much participated in shared projects thread on the Model Shipways Phantom.
I know that there are a few other members that have ordered the kit – I hope that we can learn from each-others’ experience and advice. As I mentioned in my post on the scuttlebutt forum, what I have done so far is shape the hull and carve the “caprail step.” I am using Chuck Passaro’s guide, but I added one step to carving the step. After marking and scoring the line 1/8” below the caprail I made cuts perpendicular to that scored line. The cuts were about ¼” apart and at the same depth as the scored line (1/32”). I found that these cuts enabled me to remove the material without splitting the wood. I will attach a photo to show where the extra cuts were made (marked in red), although they were made before the step was carved. (I failed to take a picture before carving the step.) ~Clayton
------------Members' Signature------------
"People, in general, only ask advice not to follow it; or if they do follow it, it is for the sake of having someone to blame for having given it." ~Athos (Three Musketeers)
http://scaleships.googlepages.com/home 
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09-25-2006, 07:22 PM
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Re: Phantom 1868
Just bought my Phantom kit last week, awaiting it in the mail. Wanted to first amass a worthy tool arsenal, but the deal on modelexpo expires end of Sept. My work area is still a pipedream (my g-friend won't allow any place but the attic)... this isn't all that bad...all I need is a space heater for the winter and some serious furniture moving. It's unfinished, but i relish the idea of my own isolated tinkering area (need to get away from the old lady sometimes ;) ).
Anyway, the kit should arrive this week, and once golf season officially ends in upstate NY (any week now), I will optimistically begin a new hobby that should promise years of enjoyment and frustration. |
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09-25-2006, 09:42 PM
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Re: Phantom 1868
OK, just waitin for my ship to come in!!!
Mean while back to the Bluenose.....
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Steve
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09-26-2006, 11:53 AM
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Re: Phantom 1868
Ah yes, waiting on the ship myself. My work area will be limited to where I can clean enough space to play. We don't have a spare room or anything for me to take over. In the meantime I guess I will go back to reading, gaming, and programming...
Christian |
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09-26-2006, 12:16 PM
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Re: Phantom 1868
Work space is something of an issue for me as well. I have a desk and a couple of shelves in the bedroom, which is okay until my wife wants to go to sleep. Apparently the bright light and my grumbling are enough to keep her awake!
Last night I decided to make an adjustable waterline marker so that it will be easier to draw the lines for the copper. I can't decide if I should paint (prime) all of the hull or leave the part that will be coppered bare wood. Any ideas?
------------Members' Signature------------
"People, in general, only ask advice not to follow it; or if they do follow it, it is for the sake of having someone to blame for having given it." ~Athos (Three Musketeers)
http://scaleships.googlepages.com/home
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09-26-2006, 12:30 PM
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Re: Phantom 1868
I would probably go with priming the entire ship, then do the plates. Reason being is that you are going to need to wait for the primer to dry anyway, and then you don't try to get ahead of yourself with doing the copper while the rest of it is drying. Just my thoughts.
Christian |
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09-27-2006, 10:53 AM
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Re: Phantom 1868
You make a good point Christian. I had not looked at it that way. One concern I have though is that the copper tape might stick better to wood than paint. I have a few modeling books, but none of them recommend one way or another.
~Clayton
------------Members' Signature------------
"People, in general, only ask advice not to follow it; or if they do follow it, it is for the sake of having someone to blame for having given it." ~Athos (Three Musketeers)
http://scaleships.googlepages.com/home
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09-27-2006, 11:45 AM
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Re: Phantom 1868
well you have to figure that the reason you prime a part for painting is so that the paint will stick to the object. The same would hold for the copper plates. By priming it before you put on the plates you are helping to seal the wood together so that the copper plates have something to stick to. Its been a bit frustrating when putting tape or foam to bare wood in that not all of the adhesive has something to stick to and you can damage the wood when the tape peals off, the primer helps this.
Christian |
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