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I need some guidance from the masters out there. I cant seem to get really good looking white bulwarks on my america. I am asking for advice to get really good looking paint. I am using enamel Through an airbrush with a primer coat of KILZ. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks Tim |
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What do you define as "good looking"? Brilliant white? A smooth finish? With a bit more info I'm sure we can help.
Jake |
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bright white with a smooth finish something that looks appropriate for a yacht sent to impress the english.
thanks tim |
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Are you painting plastic or wood? I still don't really know what it is you don't like about the finish you have already achieved, but here goes.
Paint in good daylight. Even young eyes will benefit from this! The secret to a good finish is in the preparation. On wood, make sure there are no raised areas as subsequent sanding will remove the finish in patches, resulting in rough areas where the wood may fuzz. Use a sanding stick to get into nooks and crannies. (Glue the paper onto scrap wood. If you use rubber solution glue you can easily peel of the paper when it needs replacing). If you use the paper in your hands you are in danger of sanding unevenly and rounding off corners that should remain crisp, and putting greater pressure or the more accessible areas. Seal the wood with a primer recommended for the paint you'll be using. Lightly sand. I find that initially a 250 -200 grit is adequate. Any high spots should be revealed now, so take care of these. Sand and reprime any areas of bare wood. Try reflecting a light off the surface to highlight imperfections. Once you're sure you have an even surface then you can apply the finish coats. Always clean the dust off the surface before each coat of paint (make sure the paint is completely dry!). Use a fluff-free rag. With enamels you can dampen the rag (very sparingly!) with the solvent you use eg. white spirit. Protect the model from dust when the paint is drying. With an air brush it's a good idea to have a surface you can test the spray pattern and consistency of the paint on. To achieve the consistency of the paint and the correct spray pattern requires experience, there are no short cuts. If you're having trouble with the finish then this might be part of the problem. Never start by spraying directly onto the surface you're painting. Start to one side then spray across the painting area. It's easy to say don't put too much or too little paint on (puddling, spidering, running, powdering, overspray), it require's experience. Test it first. A couple of coats of paint should suffice. Before the final coat I sand with a fine grit paper (400-600ish) If the model requires a gloss finish, consider using a satin finish. Gloss paint usually (to me) looks wrong unless you're working at quite a large scale. It can mask a lot of detail with reflected light too. A lot of this goes for plastic painting too but, depending on the scale, you need to do the job with thinner and fewer coats of paint, to preserve the detail. What I've given you here is very general info since I don't know your specific problem. The real secret to a good paint job is practice, considering all the variables involved, but if there's one thing to remember it's the surface preparation. Painting usually doesn't hide a poor surface, it highlights it. Jake |
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Jake, I to can use the information you have given and I must say it was well written and very informative. Thanks
Best Regards, Rod |
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You're very welcome, Rod.
Jake |
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One of the secrets to a really fine paint job is that you finish the surface before you put the paint on. Finishing the surface includes filling, sanding, priming, etc which you keep up until the surface is perfect. Then you can apply the final color paint. Paint is not designed to fill/fix surface problems like grain, fuzz, coarseness, etc. Use the paint as final color only.
Furniture finishers often say they first finish the wood, then apply the finish, then finish the finish.
------------Members' Signature------------
Tommy Meisel
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wow thanks for all the help. I still have a few questions I am still relatively new to the painting of wood. I have been doing plastic for 30 yrs. Wood seems to be a finicky animal. what type of primer do you recommend and will sanding sealer work? One of my major problems is the way the kits instructions said to build the bulwarks it said to place two planks together in a sandwich and then repeat that and stack one sandwich on top of the other and glue along the edge while temporarily pinning them to the frame. what this did was put this nice seam running the length of the deck that i cant manage to get rid of. In retrospect i would have found or cut a single plank to the width of the bulwark and put it on the inside this would have made a nice smooth interior bulwark. But alas I am still pretty new to this so I did not catch this problem until after all of the vertical beams were installed and it was time to paint. What I have now is a unsightly seam with fuzzy looking planks. So any help is appreciated.
Thank you very much Tim |
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I was thinking "no problem" until you said you had installed the vertical beams. This will make sanding and filling the areas between them a nightmare! As I see it you have two options - either one involves removing the beams, the alternative (filling and sanding between the beams) seems just too tedious and doesn't guarantee a good result. Once removed, have you the material to make new beams? I'm guessing they're not too complex in form - perhaps use scrap strip wood left over from the hull planking.
Option one - can you debond the beams? What did you use to glue them on? There have been a few threads on various forums on this topic but you have the added problem of coats of paint. If you can get the beams off by debonding they maybe you can reuse them. Option two - break the beams off. Don't worry about the finish, we can repair that, but you probably won't be able to reuse the parts that were removed. Once you're down to the planks, coarsly sand (using a sanding block) until they're roughly level. Fill any gaps between the planks. Sand (200ish grit). Fill. Sand etc. until you have a smooth finish. Then replace the beams. Seal or prime. Lightly sand. Prime wood that shows through. Lightly sand. Carry on until you're happy with the finish. The reason you get the fuzz is because the fibres swell and stand up. Any coarse sanding breaks the paint coat on the fibres and they will continue to look fuzzy. A couple of coats of sealer/primer, with a light sand in between, should take care of this. Also make absolutely sure the paint has dried between applications. Sorry, there's no quick fix, but why spoil a ship for a ha'p'orth of tar. Jake |
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Thank you Jake I appreciate the help I think I am going to try to debond and remove the verticals and sand until its as smooth as (well you know the rest).
I would remove the whole bulwarks but I don't see how to get them reinstalled properly. Thanks again and best regards Tim |
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