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11-17-2012, 09:21 AM
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Re: HMS Ontario
Side steps
I drew the steps as per Steele: they must be placed ar rge fore part of the main drift, or gangway, about three feet in length, six inches asunder ,and five inches deep,from the top of the side down to the load-water line. I added a curve to the edges of the steps but I suppose a more decorative edging would be done.  (open in a blank window)
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11-18-2012, 07:14 AM
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Re: HMS Ontario
Fenders
The fenders extend from the bottom of the planksheer to the top of the wale. The first 2 are abreast of the main hatch on the gun deck. They are 14 to 16" deep and are sided 1/3rd of their depth. Rounding the figures, for easy math. I made the fenders 15" deep therefore they are 5" sided. They are approx. 1 of spacing between them. I drew them in. The next fender is the same dimensions but from the bottom of the channel wale to the top of the upper wale. It is placed at 1' in front of the Foremast channel. This helps protect the channel from damage. The chestree is added to the top part of this fender. From the underside, of the planksheer, to the top of the fender. This chestree has a sheave inside of it for pulling the yards when changing tack of the ship. The chestree is 7 sided and 6 deep. The chestree are pieces of oak timber, fayed and bolted to the topsides, one on each side, abaft the fore-channels, with a sheave fitted in the upper part for the convenience of hauling home the main-tack. Its true situation is half the length of the main-yard before the center of the man-mast.  (open in a blank window)
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11-19-2012, 08:23 AM
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Re: HMS Ontario
The best thing I could offer here is to follow the directions and the picture that I included.
I drew it as stated in the directions; I then rotated and scaled in to fit the front of the head. Its not perfect but it looks reasonable. I probably would suggest tracing the one on the original draught. . To Draw a Simple Volute. - Let D A, in Fig. 225, be the width of a scroll or other member for which it is desired to draw a volute termination. Draw the line D 1, in length equal to three times D A, as shown by D A, A B and B 1. From the point 1 draw 1 2 at right angles to D 1, and in length equal to two-thirds the width of the scroll - that is, to two-thirds of D A. From 2 draw the line 2 3 perpendicular to 1 2, and in length equal to three-quarters of 1 2. Draw the diagonal line 1 3. From 2 draw a line perpendicular to 1 3, as shown by 2 4, indefinitely. From 3 draw a line perpendicular to 2 3, producing it until it cuts the line 2 4 in the point 4. From 4 draw a line perpendicular to 3 4, producing it until it meets the line 1 3 in the point 5. In like manner draw 5 6 and 6 7. The points 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., thus obtained are the centers by which the curve of the volute is struck. From 1 as center, and with 1 D as radius, describe the quarter circle D C. Then from 2 as center, and 2 C as radius, describe the quarter circle C F, and so continue using the centers in their numerical order until the curve intersects with the other curve beginning at A and struck from the same centers, thus completing the figure, as shown.  (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)
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11-20-2012, 09:40 AM
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Re: HMS Ontario
Try sail
I copied several examples of what the try sail is and size. Since a size is not mentioned but smaller that all the others, I took an example from the USS Constitution. It is similar but 3 mast but has a trysail as well. Its size is 10 at the base. Taking Ύ for the top = 71/2. I drew it in where stated before,behind the main mast. Trysail-masts step upon deck close abaft the mainmast of snows, and their heads fix underneath the aftside of the top. At the head they are trimmed round to three-fourths the diameter at the heel. The sails and rigging on the main and fore mast are similar to those on the same mast in a ship, the braces of the sails on the main-mast leading forward: Besides which, there is a small mast, close behind the main-mast, that carries a trysail, resembling the mizen of a ship. This mast, called the trysail-mast, is fixed in a step of wood upon deck, and the head fixed by an iron clamp to the aftside of the main-top. The key is the trysail mast, which is a small mast, much thinner and shorter than the mainmast and foremast, and which, unlike them, is stepped from the deck, not the keel. The trysail mast is sited just abaft the mainmast and its head is connected to the trestle-trees at the main top - the jaws of the gaff and boom of the spanker sail connect to the trysail mast and the luff of the sail is hooped to it. In the classic definition, the snow has the trysail mast and the brig doesn't, and in other main respects the vessels are similar. In the brig, the luff of the spanker is hooped to the mainmast or to a stay (rope or wire) running along it.
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11-20-2012, 01:39 PM
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Re: HMS Ontario
Cathead
The Cathead on the Ontario, is according to Goodwin, between 8 and 10" square. It projects at an angle of 15 to 20 degrees. It akso projects from the centerline of the ship at an angle of 45 degrees and it must line up with a ships frame member for maximum strength. It is also classified as a Vertical cathead that was used on sloops and brigs in the 18th century. The length of the projection, measured from the inside of the rail was approx. 4' or 1/6th of the moulded breadth of the ship. Since it can't go over a gun port, I looked at the members in the half breadth plan towards the bow of the ship. I drew a vertical line to the sheer plan at the rail. From here I measured down 9". I drew 2 lines from these 2 points at an angle of 15 degrees. On the half breadth plan, I drew a line at the member closest to the gunport at a 45 degree angle. I copied this line at 45 degrees. I made them 4' from the inside edge of the frame member. At the outside point of the cathead, I drew a vertical line to the 15 egree lines of the sheer plan. At these points of intersection I drew 2 perpendicular lines 9" long, and then joined top and bottom lines together. This shows where and what angle the cathead is on the sheer plan. I trimmed all lines on both sheer and half breadth plan. The Supporting Knee The length of the supporting knee arm = length of the Cathead x 17/32 = 4' x 17/32 = 25.2" and the siding of the knee = width of Cathead x 9/16 = 9 x 9/16 = 5" On the sheer plan, I drew the center line of the underside of the cathead. From here I drew the arm siding width of 2 1/2" each side of the centerline for a lebgth of 25.2". The lower length of the knee arm is 5/8ths of the upper length = 25.2 x 5/8 = 16". This I drew in. The next step is to draw in the rails of the head.  (open in a blank window)
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11-21-2012, 06:56 AM
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Re: HMS Ontario
Head rails
I have been leaving this for the last. It is more complicated and almost 3d drafting. I extended the top of the upper wale to the front of the stem. From here I measured, from this intersection to the intersection of the stem and the underside of the Bowsprit. I then divided this into 4 equal parts. The division from the under side of the bottom knee is to the upper side of the next knee. Upper rail The upper rail depth or moulded dimension is 5/8ths for every foot of the length and diminishes to 3/5ths of this depth at the head. Using these dimensions I started cuving the shape of the rail to the head. Like I said it is not an exact science because it is almost 3d work. I did the same for the other knees and rail. lower rail Is 4/5ths of the upper rails depth. By rounding lines from the Cathead to the jubction at the stem, I formed the rough shape of the rail. The cheek knees should show the same as the upper rail and also taper towards the figure. Again the shape is parallel to the shear of the wales. By following the size at the start, near the gun port, I tapered gradually to the head figure. The timbers of the head should be sided the same as the upper rail is moulded. I measured the distance where the upper rail meets the head to the curve of the rail at the cathead. I then divided this dimension by 4 and drew in the timbers of the head. The instruction given go on to state that exact measurements, lengths etc. can not be gotten from these views they would be to short. There is a more complicated method and involves the exact drafting of the head view and transferring lines from the sheer to the half breadth plan. Until I start to build would I mould the knees and rails to the hull.  (open in a blank window)
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11-21-2012, 12:02 PM
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Re: HMS Ontario
Seats of Ease
There are 2 square boxes at the front of the ship, located in between the head rails. The boxes are 2' square with a 14" opening on the top. The length extends down from 18" above the grating to a distance that the waste clears the ship. I have included 2 pics of the seats of ease. 1st one is the actual ship and if you look closely you can see the 1 seat on the starboard side. 2nd one is a plan view of what they would look like in the head area Also this pic will give you an idea of what the reails and cheeks will look like also..  (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)
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11-22-2012, 06:24 AM
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Re: HMS Ontario
Windlas,
The Pawl bitt in the center of the windlass helps determine its size. I subtracted the thickness of the keel from the extreme breadth and then added ½ of this unto itself. Therefore 25 -1 = 24 + 12 = 36 Now I call this size inches 36. Now I take 1/3rd of this and it will be the sided dimension. Therefore 36 x 1/3 = 13. Now I take 3/8ths of this and it will give me the moulded or fore and aft size. 13 x 3/8 = 4 7/8. Diameter of the Windlass Take the extreme breadth of the ship, call it inches, and take 2/3rds of it. Therefore 25' now 25" x 2/3 = 16.67" The height of the windlass above the deck is between 20 and 22 from the center of the barrel, to the deck. Therefore the windlass here is 16.67 in diameter, I took half this which is approx. 8. 375 subtract this from say 20 and the height is 11 to 12 above the deck. The bitts should be in thickness 1/3rd the diameter of the windlass. Therefore 16.67 x 1/3 = 5 5/8 The length should nor be any less than the diameter of the windlass. Therefore 16 5/8. But the pawl bitt plus ½ the diameter of the windlass = 4 7/8 + 8.33 = 13.25. This is the true width of the Carrick bitts. To make the windlass serviceable removable checks are added to the windlass bitts which are bolted in place. They envelope the windlass spindle and are from the deck to the upper side of the windlass in radius thickness. The windlass bitts extend through the 2 decks and are bolted to the beams on both. What fas to be determined later is the width of the windlass on the deck.  (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)
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11-22-2012, 01:09 PM
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Re: HMS Ontario
The Anchor Riding bitt
There are usually 2 pairs of Riding bitta for the anchor. But on the Ontario there seems to be only 1 pair. They are located at the fore of the Foremast beams. The cross beam faces forward to take up the strain of the cables. Therefore the bitts have to extend down to the lower deck beams. They must be bolted through the 2 beams. The bitts are sided as follows. The thickness of the bitts are 10" its moulded size is also 10". Its length above deck is 1'6" After passing through the 2 decks the bottom end of the bitts are 8". This end is also rabbetted in to the beam. When I drew a perpoendicular line from the edge of the top beam down, it intersects the gun deck beam , not on the edge but further in. A tapered plank of wood is added between the 2 beams and is bolted to the beams and bitts for more strength. This leaves the cross beam above deck. It is sided and moulded 10" x 9" abd has to extend 1'10" on either side of the bitt. Also they must be bolted together with the bolts exactly in the center from the edge. Maximum strength.  (open in a blank window)Automerged Post: There are a few things that I havent done that other plans must be developed first. On the gun deck the main hatchway is a double hatchway. According to Brian Lavery ( Arming and Fitting of English ships of war) There is not enough space on a single hatchway for 90 pound barrels of powder and supplies. The fore hatchway is only 4 x 4.5 so definitely not big enough. Again according to Lavery and it makes sense, that there is a cover over the top of the rudder head. This keeps out the elements. There is a rubber gasket also that is situated around the rudder shaft at the lower counter area. This keeps out the spray of the water in rough seas. As a model I doubt it would be big enough to include. On the draughts and according to another source there is no skylight on the Quarter deck. The 2 pumps need to be located on the quarter deck plan. Scuttles located on either side of the Foremast. These are located on the gun deck for access to the magazine and powder rooms. The sweeps and air ports also need to be located on the disposition of frames. I changed the anchor linings. I removed the one aft of the fore on the channel. I did not take into account the length of the main anchor shaft. The second anchor would be past the aft end of the channel when raised. A good question would be if there is a lining attached to the sides aft of the channel. At present there is no indication of this, but they are never included on draughts anyway. I also added a breast hook under the Bowsprit. One has to be added here but it can not be cut in anyway by the bowsprit. Another important factor is the Galley. All sources claim the stove is located under the Forecastle. But for the life of me I cant say where it would go. Unless the book and/or documentary provides an answer, I may never know. As I build her I will probably be making changes. And when the documentary comes out, Changes will probably be done as a result. I enjoyed this exercise, plus some head aches, and I have made some mistakes and if you are following this please read the whole thing because changes occurred later that would impact the placement of some things. If you have questions please feel free to email me and I hope I can answer them. Thanks for allowing me to do this and post the results. I know I have tested some of your patience at times as I have definitely tested mine. Dave 1254  (open in a blank window) (open in a blank window)
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