Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

WOW Tom! . . . what a fantastic planking job. That thing is beautiful and the photos are superb.

To get things square and true, I purchased the fair-a-frame. I used it on this model, but I have to tell you, I'm not at all impressed with the outcomes it created. I'm probably going to use a different method of squaring things up in the future. The fair-a-frame probably has some value for filler and scrap wood, so I won't throw it out. Anyone else have this experience?

I hate to admit this by putting it on the forum, but I'm going to confess. Something happened that left the main deck appearing as if it is warped toward the port side in terms of how the main deck matches up with the quarterdeck. I measured the bulwark distances and the quarterdeck width to see what was really up, and the measurements show it to be only about 1/64" to 1/32" out of allignment.

Unfortunately on the starboard side the waterway is about 1/8" short of meeting the quarterdeck when the port side is exactly flush with it. I will probably do a slight repair with a wedge shaped piece of balsa, trim it to fit so that the front of the quarterdeck is perfectly verticle or as nearly as possible, then harden it with CA.

Frank Mastini would probably throw the whole thing out, but I'm going to work around it. I think it will create a little more work to fit things since the hull won't be esactly the same on both sides.

Otherwise I'm slowly installing the first planking on the transome. I'm having fun.
Dan

Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

Dan,

Your's is looking great. You seem to have been more careful about your balsa filler blocks that I was, and your hull fairing looks really good.

I'm trying to understand your deck alignment issue. I get the impression that the bulkhead that forms the front edge of the quarterdeck may be out of alignment, but if it's as small a distance as you indicate, this can be addressed when you do the deck and quarterdeck planking. The planks will be 3/32" thick, so after you plank the front edge of the quarter deck you could sand it back square. (This assumes I understand the problem, of course.)

If you were able to somehow measure the current thickness of my now-sanded and smoothed first layer of hull planks, you'd find their thickness would vary from place to place. I suspect in some places the variance is quite sugnificant. The first layer's thick enough to allow for this final adjustment to the hull fairing before applying the walnut veneer.

Last night I steamed the walnut for the wales and clamped them in place (no glue) to let them dry overnight. I may get a chance to glue them down tonight ... but other things have been demanding of my time lately.

Life happens.

- Tom

Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

I planked the transom and counter this weekend with both layers (photos not posted yet). Instead of keeping the windows level, I decided to let their base partially follow the curving contour of the transom-counter knuckle. It turned out okay, but I’m not sure how much I like the visual result. I definitely had trouble with making the walnut planking around the window frame edges come out nicely.

I read everyone’s notes on making sure to glue the edges of walnut to prevent splitting. I’m not sure what happened but discovered some surprising outcomes. Bob Hunt’s practicum says to soak the walnut planks and use CA glue, because it reacts well with moist wood and creates a solid bond on all surfaces. Unfortunately I discovered quite the opposite.

I first noticed it on the top plank over the transom when I bumped an edge. Half the plank jumped away from the basswood and I was able to remove it completely by wedging a knife blade between the walnut and basswood planks. Examining the glue pattern, I could see that it stuck only in the center of the plank and not on the edges. I can’t figure out what happened: moist wood that caused the glue to set up too rapidly so that it was already hard the moment later when I applied pressure to the edges, or walnut is just hard to get glue to adhere to.

I’m definitely planning to use a different gluing technique when planking the hull, at least when I do the walnut layer. Any suggestions? Did anyone else have similar problems with CA glue and walnut? I guess I'm going to be looking through the shop tips, and checking out the possible use of fly fishing head glue.

Dan

Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

I keep expecting to reach a point where I switch over to CA, but so far I've used it very little. 99% of my gluing has been with Titebond II (probably because that's what I had on hand).

The times when I have found CA to be helpful is when I want to "tack down" the very end of a plank at the stem or under the counter before gluing the rest down. While holding the end of the plank tightly in place and aligned correctly, I let some CA seep into the joint through capilary action. (If that's not feasible, I use one of the thicker "gel" varieties of CA, which sets up slower but works great on wood.) The planks are often a bit damp because I've just steam-bent them, and this does accelerate the CA but interferes with the yellow glue. Once the CA'd end is set I let the plank hang there until it's fully dry, and then Titebond the rest of it into place.

I guess if I had the cleverness (and/or tools) to figure out how to clamp the plank ends into these tight spots, I'd have avoided CA, but I'm not up to holding something rock-steady for the 1/2 hour it'd take yellow glue to form a good bond.

One other benefit I've found using yellow glue: it's water based, so it slightly softens the wood (even the walnut veneer), helping it to conform to the curves of the hull.

It does demand patience, though. On a good evening I can complete, at most, two strakes per side.

- Tom

Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

I have already read a lot about problems people have with planking their hulls. Now so far I have only built 4 plank on bulkhead models, 2 odf them being double planked. On the 2nd one (single planked with PVA glue, I had problems with badly cut frames and with the nails which prevented me from getting a smooth finish of the hull. For the 3d ship, I bought an Amati plank bender which tool proved to me the best tool I ever bought. With it, I hardly ever had to soak plank, so no shrinking problems afterwards. The 1st layer I glued with PVA temporarily held in place with pins, the 2nd one with contact glue applied on both sides and stuck together when contact dry. Planks are bent with the Amati bender to a curve than is a little sharper than needed. No pins, no steam, and after some 5 years, they show no sign of coming loose. Possible smears can be removed with a white spirit damped cloth, so you do not have places than will not take the stain. Who has ever tried this method?

JP

Dis-Armed Virginia Sloop
 

Friends,

In case you're wondering about how I'm progressing on my ship ... I'm not.

I've managed to break a bone in my right hand - the one that runs from the wrist to the base of the index finger. :yikes: (Spiral fracture to the second metacarpal, for you anatomists out there.)

When asked how I did it, my honest answer is always, "Doing something stupid." :bonk:

I'm hoping to get back to it in June, but until then I'm restricted to studying up on ships and modeling, hanging around the forums, and staring at my unfinshed AVS trying to figure out if there's anything I coud do one-handed. ](*,)

- Tom

Re: Dis-Armed Virginia Sloop
 

Don't worry, I won't ask how!! :-#
Sorry to hear that Tom. Well, you needed to take a 'break' from modeling anyway. (No pun intended, but I couldn't resist).
Recover soon, and keep us updated.
John

Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

JP, Is the Amati plank bender a pliar tool that has a smooth surface on one side and a rectangular shape on the other side with the edge used to mark the inside surface in several places to form a bend?
Dan

Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

Well, just in case anyone happens to be viewing this thread occasionally - I “finished” my first planking. I have to say, that my strakes are kind of crazy to look at, not flowing and beautiful like Tom and Len’s are. The hull does at least have good shape. I will need some fill in a couple of places and I’ll need to build up one side a bit near the stern - which didn’t turn out quite symmetrical to the eye.

I hope to get at least three photos loaded after I do the fill work that shows my stages of progress before any sanding after first planking completion, after sanding and a clear coat of sealer, and after build up of the stern. It’s a bit embarrassing to leave my work hanging out there for all to see, especially after the fantastic work others are doing. The reason I want to have them available, is so that if the end produce turns out well at all, others who are stone cold novices like me will not be discouraged by their progress.

I think I’d like to paint the hull a light color after the fill work, so I’ll have a clean, clear surface to draw patterns on for the second planking. My hope is to do a good enough job on this second one to at least give me a decision about whether or not to paint the final product. If it turns out at all like the first planking, then the decision is already made . . . a painting we will go.

I have at least 4 more boats I want to build including the Constitution and Rattlesnake, before I even have to figure out what’s next. I also have a household move from Tacoma, WA, to Ft Leonard Wood, MO early this fall. I’m not going to rush my project, but may have to take a short break when that time comes around.

Modeling is a great “vacation” from all the “have-tos” that seem to crowd in so closely sometimes. Since I’m an introvert at heart, but have an extrovert job - a solitary kind of past time is a great way to relax. No one believes I’m an introvert, but when I’m standing down, hiding in my workshop area, I know it well - because regeneration slowly seeps in.

Dan

Re: First outer planking layer complete.
 

Dan,

I look forward to seeing your photos. And keep in mind that my planking hides a few dirty little secrets too. :suspicious:

My hand has healed enough for me to work a little, so I started with the wales. The walnut wales are 1/16" thick. When I glued the starboard one in place, I realized that I'd thinned down the lower ends of the fashion pieces at the stern to less than 1/16", and they weren't flush with the wales.

So ... I selected some scrap 1/16" walnut from a sheet of laser-cut parts and built new fashion pieces.

When I went to tear out the old fashion pieces, I exposed one of those "dirty little secrets" at the stern. I had initially narrowed the hull too much at the base of the transom, where the wales terminate. To correct this, I put a second basswood plank layer over the first in the offending area, and then thinned that down to the corrected curve. Once I'd applied the walnut at the stern and glued in the fashion pieces, it didn't show and I'd forgotten all about it.

That's another good thing about this hobby ... you can finish with something that looks really nice, even if you make a lot of mistakes along the way.

- Tom