Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

Hey Bob, How are you doing on your AVS. I hope you are finding the first couple of chapters of Bob Hunt's practicum to be really interesting.

I was finally able to get going on my AVS that had been sitting a while so I could get some things in order in my life after a move - the primary thing for my AVS being getting my shop in at least partly in order.

This last weekend I was able to nearly complete chapter 7. I have to add 3 cleats, a dead-eye, and 6 straps - then I'm finished. Don't know if I can get it done before the weekend, but hope to.

The rigging will be something totally different to me. The canon rigging was okay, but after seeing how others did seizing - I think I will do it differently next time. Anyway, I'm excited to get on to the next phase, and learn some new stuff for my next model.

Interesting how long this "entry level" model has taken. I took some side trips including building a ship's boat that made it more exciting, but I also learned a lot. One of my objectives in doing this model, was to get as much experience as possible before going on to the next model. The only thing I will not have done is making sails.

dan

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

Hi Dan,

Long time, no see. I have been plugging away at my AVS. I posted a few photos. It's been a little slow this summer, but I guess that's the same for most everybody. Other activities take precedence.

Glad you're getting settled in your new digs. Moving is a giant pain. I've done way too much of it myself. I didn't check the gallery to see if you posted any new photos, but I'd love to see some of your AVS.

I have been pretty pleased with my own AVS right up until I got to those d----d sweep ports. I am not very pleased with the way they turned out but this is, after all, a learning experience. I'm just not too sure what I could have done differently to make them, though. Before I ever tackle something like that again I'll have to do a bit of thinking. Any suggestions would be very welcome.

Anyhow, take care and I'll look forward to seeing your progress.

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

Hi all,

Long time since my last update on my AVS here. I have completed the deck furniture and posted a few photos of that. They were actually fun to build, once I muddled through the basic construction steps and figured out the sequence. I built the coamings using a method suggested by Pete Jacquith on the LSS Freshman course forum. This method makes for some very nice box joints in the coamings and I think little touches like that make for a lot of visual appeal. If you're out there, Thanks Pete!

I'm on to the deck planking now. That nibbing plank looks like a bit of a challenge, but I'm sure it's not insurmountable.

Happy Building!

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

In testing the planking and the technique of using a Sharpie pen to simulate caulking, I found that the ink from the pen tended to seep into the wood quite a bit (at least in the wood that came with my kit), even when doing the quickest and lightest swipe with the pen. To overcome this I tried giving the planking a single coat of Minwax Wipe-On before I colored the edge and that works quite well. I posted a photo of my experimental piece and I hope it shows the results clearly enough. The section on the right was colored before treating with the Wipe-On and the section on the left is colored after treatment.

This slows down the process of planking because you have to cut, fit, treat and let the plank dry before you can color the edge and glue it down, but it keeps a nice, crisp edge on the plank.

Besides, it's ship modeling! Who's in a hurry??

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

Bob, Your notes are a great demonstration of how to keep the sharpie from soaking into the wood fibers. I tried that too, and finally decided to use a number two led pencil, because I didn't have the patience to wait. The graphite dust from that can become an issue, but if I kept blowing it off and touched the graphite edges as little as possible, it worked fine, and allowed a very slight wear look.

I also used super glue almost exclusively for planking and everything else. It avoided a lot of clamping, and I hope the finish helps avoid glue failure - far into the future.

I super glued the deck fittings in place too, but noticed that a slight bump would break them loose. As a result I took the extra pains to attach them to the deck - especially the canons - by drilling and sinking a small brass wire through the corners of combing and other pieces. For the canons I just drilled a tiny hole straight through the top of each wheel and into the deck. I glued the wires in place, and I think they will stay just fine.

Is this fun - or what ?!!

Dan

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

I used Dan's idea about drilling the little holes down through the wheels of the cannon carriages and putting wires through the wheels and into the deck...and it works great! I blackened the wire first, not so much for the color but because it is my understanding that the chemical etches the wire a bit and I figured that would make it a better gluing surface. After I put the wires into the holes I made a little drift pin by grinding the very tip off of a small T-pin and I used that to countersink the wires. I was able to put a little drop of thin CA into each hole and it wicked down the wire and into the deck very neatly. The cannons are glued down very tightly and there isn't a trace of glue showing on the deck. Very good idea, Dan! Tomorrow I will fill the holes and put a dab of paint on them and it all ought to become invisible.

I added a couple of photos in the gallery.

I vacillated about it but finally decided to go ahead and order some 3mm blocks from Warner Woods and see what they are like. The smallest blocks in the AVS kit do strike me as being too big for the cannon tackle, just as Bob Hunt says in the practicum. That'll stop progress on the cannons for a week or so, but it's not like there aren't other things to do. I've heard some good things about the WW blocks. (No, I don't know Mr. WW!)

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

Hi Bob,

I ended up using Warner Woods blocks for all my blocks on the AVS. Be aware of two things, however, (hope this post isn't getting to you too late). First, you will have to drill out the holes on all the blocks in order to fit your rigging line. They are just too small to use other wise. I clamped mine to the table using needle nose pliers and then drilled the holes out using a spring loaded spiral twist drill with a bit somewhere between a #65 and a #71 depending on the line size I needed.

Second, the blocks come unstained. I got excellent results using Minwax walnut stain and varnish combination product. Looks much better than leaving them unstained.

Best Regards,
John F Smith
Eugene, OR

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

Hi John,

As fate would have it, I just received the WW blocks yesterday and I had already figured on staining them. Thanks for the advice on the Minwax. On reading your note, I looked again and I can see what you're talking about in terms of the holes being pretty small. I haven't started to rig the gun tackles yet but I'll be sure to ream out the holes and stain the blocks beforehand. I also ordered some of his .015 linen line to use for the tackles and I might not need to do too much drilling, but I'll be sure to check it out before I get too far. I must say that they are very nice looking blocks and I'm glad I got them. I think I'll do the same as you and use his blocks for the whole ship.

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

It's been quite a while since I posted anything here and I have been plugging away on my AVS using Bob Hunt's practicum. I got all of my pre-rigging done on my mast and got to the part I've been trying to not think about...where Bob says, "You may now glue your mast in place."

I had to ponder this for a day or two in order to establish a method and this is what I came up with to get the mast perpendicular to the deck and at the proper angle. I have posted 4 photos to illustrate.

There are, obviously, two dimensions that need to be addressed in mounting the mast. First is the side-to-side orientation, which must be perpendicular to a line projected across the caprails. Second is the fore and aft rake. These positions both have to be maintained while the glue sets and an old shaky fella' like me sure can't hold the thing in the right position for that long! So I built an H-fixture jig to hold the mast in place. I made it so that it could straddle the model while the model rests in my rigging cradle and so that I could adjust the top horizontal member up and down so the top portion of the mast could rest against it. I also wanted it tall enough so that I'd be able to use it for future builds that might be taller than the AVS.

To establish the proper rake, I studied the plans and by my measurements I came up with about 15-16 degrees worth of rake towards the stern as measured at the waterline. While looking at the plans, I decided that the section of the deck where the main hatch is located was close enough to parallel with the waterline as made no difference. The hatch is nice and flat and gave me a good place to set an a piece of plywood with a 15 degree angle cut on it so that the mast rested against it and this made a stable arrangement. For the side-to-side alignment I simply rested a torpedo level across the caprails and oriented the hull so that the bubble was level. Then I hung a plumb bob from the top horizontal member of the H-fixture so that the weight pointed at the centerline of the deck. After that it was just a matter of globbing some glue on the step of the mast, resting the top against the horizontal member so that the mast was lined up with the plumb bob string and then sitting back and waiting for the glue to set up. The choice of glue was another decision that required some thought. I finally settled on 5-minute epoxy. I had my doubts about that due to the short time I would have for adjustments, but finally decided that my setup was stable enough that it wouldn't take much adjustment and the 5-minute stuff would actually be a good thing as it would set up before I could second-guess myself and mess things up!

It all worked quite satisfactorily and now I can proceed with the rigging.

As per the note in the practicum, there is no "traveler ring" in the kit but making one from the 1/32" brass wire and soldering the joint was not a big deal. Round-nose pliers are a definite help in this. You can find them in craft stores that sell beading supplies.

Re: Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways
 

Well, I haven't posted much as I moved along. I'm 99% finished the rigging. Just have to rig the anchors and buoys, then attach the rope coils. I added pictures, but not a completed rigging photo yet. My swivel guns are completed, and I will just set them in place when finished with the coils. I probably wasted a lot of .021 tan rope, but used nearly every last strand.

Bob Hunt's forum was what made me able to actually think I could do this - then showed the way to get me this far. I've been 3 yrs and 2 mos getting to this point, and have taken some rabbit trails along the way, like adding a ship's boat and a couple of other things that I wanted to do just to get the experience. So, I've ended up with a not historically correct model of a sloop similar (I guess you'd say) to an AVS.

The rigging was the most demanding thing on this model - although there certainly are quite a few new and challenging experiences. I've never worked with wood over curved surfaces, and that was fun.

In reading experiences of others as they model different projects, one person said his rigging loosened up and sagged. I didn't think mine would, but alas it has to one degree or another. I don't know what it will do in time, but it'll be interesting to find out.

I built my own case using dimensions suggested when ordering one to be built, but what a monstrosity that thing is. I'll add some photos later. If I build all the models I'm interested in building, first I hope they won't take as long as this one has, secondly I don't know where on earth I'll put all those cases around my house. I'm going to have to think of something else.

Dust definitely does ruin beautiful detail, and it can't easily be removed. I have a plastic model of the USS Arizona, and in just two years a layer of dust settled on its deck that I can't budge with even air from a can. So, it'll have to stay.

Rigging would have been nearly impossible for my all thumbs approach when it comes to strings (ropes), and Mr Sicard’s ideas found on his website http://www.shipmodeling.ca/aaplandusite.html were just the thing that made me able to accomplish seizing. I found his work table that he calls “the crab,” indispensable. I build one similar to his and it has so far been truly a life saver. I think it’s $35 or $40 to join his site for two years - and together with Bob Hunt’s practicum it was worth more than many of the other things and books I purchased for getting the ideas of others on how to do some of the tasks, but especially the rigging. Mr Sicard is truly a genius at coming up with all kinds of ideas that help the modeling experience. Can’t recommend his site highly enough.

Dan