Re: Bluenose IV
 

Interesting info, Winston. Sounds like a good candidate for some MSB Journal articles once they get building. Any idea why they're building another, when Bluenose II is still sailing?
Anyway, thanks for the link to the site. I'll have to keep that in mind for when I start building Bluenose. I just picked up my third kit (MS Sultana) from my local hobby shop, and found out that the shop will have a booth at the Chicago Hobby Expo in a few weeks, and will be offering merchandise at a discount. They'll bring an MS Bluenose kit to the show for me. Since I already was planning on building her to learn how to plank, I figure I should take advantage of the discount and get her now. But NO MORE until I finish Sultana...I will NOT begin hoarding kits that I won't ever get around to building...I mean it....I hope. :=)

Re: Bluenose IV
 

Hi Ben,

Why? That's a good question Ben. I've read cases for and against in the news. Myself, I wonder why they dont' take the money and use it to refurbish the current Bluenose. That being said, it might be less expensive to build a new one. :-)

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

I have been a member of this site for a while now and yet to make any posts
Now is the time to get started
I have the basic hull built and the second planking and the deck completed
I have noticed errors in the project as this was started some years ago :(
I have ordered some materials that were listed in John H. Earl articles
I have some photo's of the project which can be seen at the link listed below

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/home

The waterways and the scuppers need to be corrected and I was looking at the deck planking , maybe I can redo it with material that is closer to scale
The goal is to get the project on the move again
I was almost tempted to get another kit and start again but finishing this model before moving on would be greatly satisfying

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Today has been a good day
I have created a photo Album - Bluenose 11

What I am working on is , I have cut the scuppers to high and I would like to fill the holes and redo them

First I would remove the the stanchions as I will also redo those

I could fill the holes with wood filler ,
but what I am thinking of doing is cutting the hull planking out in sections where the holes are , re-planking with the thin planks and using would filler inside
I want to patch the holes but not have the spots show on the finished model
so I am wondering maybe I shouldn't use wood filler

Any Ideas or suggestions would be welcome

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Hi there. Although, i have not yet started my Bluenose II (A/L), it is just sitting on my shelf waiting to be done. Soon after I have finished my current project it will be started. Being a Canuck, it is the one ship I "have" to build. Good luck on your build - sounds like it is coming along.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Gary:
You might try wooden plugs (full thickness of the first plank) secured in the scupper holes, then wood filler. If the model is double planked, the second layer would be solid (no trace on the outside). Cover the inside with a barrel or rope coil.

"If you make a mistake, paint it. If that doesn't work, hide it!"

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Hi Gary --



I had a similar problem with the scuppers on my Pirate Sloop - solution was to use modelers putty - used more than I needed -when dry , sanded to smooth and painted over - problem gone - for inner bullworks I added new thinner planks and than stained , and cut new scuppers.

HOLD FAST !

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Good idea's for filling the scupper holes
Thank you for the comments :thanks:

I have been working on the hull , to correct the outside shape
using scrap wood planks to correct the profile , it is above the water line on both sides
when I have finished sanding it to shape , I will re-plank above the waterline with the second coat planks
progress is beginning to take place now that quit looking at it and cut some wood

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

You are welcome - glad to be of service .


HOLD FAST !

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

This is not a reply to anybody, just my search for my 15 minutes of fame.
I am building the Model Shipways Bluenose, an excellent kit in my inexperienced
opinion. I have completed the hull planking except for the bulwarks and rail, and the
deck planking. It appears to be much easier to do it in that order, rather than the
order recommended in the instructions for various reasons. Am I missing something ?
I'll find out soon. I have the excellent book by L.B. Jenson and that shows the nibbing
pattern for the deck planking. Be Warned! The Jenson book is mostly about Bluenose ll,
but has a lot of info re about Bluenose l. The deck planking is different on the two ships.
If you are really fussy about scale, the 1/16th X 1/8th planking supplied in the kit
is quite a bit too wide. Since I am not building for a museum I used the kit-supplied
strips. On the foredeck I tried painting the planks on each edge to represent caulking.
That gave too much of an effect, so on the quarterdeck I painted only one side. That
looks quite elegant, but now the two decks are a bit different. I am rationalizing that by
reminding myself that most of the heavy work was probably carried out on the foredeck
and the additional tramping around would make the two decks look different.........
Anyway, they will be covered by dories, barrels, winches, pumps etc. So shut up,
already. I made a simple tool to make small holes in the deck planks representing
fasteners (two very large straight pins soldered together, heads removed) That worked
fine. A child's colouring pencil, kept very sharp, coloured the holes brown. That worked
OK given the limits of my skill.
More later.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

I have two criticisms of this kit (Model Shipways' Bluenose).
One is the lack of decals ! How in heaven's name are we supposed to reproduce all those curlicues (SP ?) at the bow, not to mention the lettering of the name ? Decals are not too expensive to produce if you have the equipment - I have built 1:43 Ferrari models for years, and each kit comes with decals of race numbers, drivers' names etc etc, all correct-looking as i can tell from my collection of Road & Track. Model ships' nsurfaces are rough, but decals will conform to almost any surface with the help of solvents.
Second, the transom. According to the instructions you apparently glue wooden blocks to each side of the keel at the stern, and shape them either before or after glueing. The blocks would form the transom. But what shape ? Maybe the contours should be such that the hull planks would lie smoothly on them........... There is no indication of the shape of the actual transom. There is a stern view but the transom is raked at an angle of about 45 degrees, so you can't use that. I ended up expanding that stern view vertically using high-school geometry instruments, cutting a transom to that shape out of 1/8 sheet, notching it to fit over the "keel', curving it on my nice new plank bender, and glueing on the "keel". Fitting the stern blocks is then easy. That worked fine, and the hull planking went on easily.
The foregoing may not be clear, and I have no pics but I hope that if you are building the kit you will be able to follow it.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Hi Denis,
I bought white rub-on decals from Micro Mark. They say old cigar boxes with gold decor are good for using as curlicues. I'm looking around at garage sales for some. I agree about the transom. I finally went with what I thought looked good.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Hi Dennis -- you said -- "There is no indication of the shape of the actual transom. There is a stern view but the transom is raked at an angle of about 45 degrees, so you can't use that. I ended up expanding that stern view vertically using high-school geometry instruments, cutting a transom to that shape out of 1/8 sheet, notching it to fit over the "keel', curving it on my nice new plank bender, and glueing on the "keel". Fitting the stern blocks is then easy. That worked fine, and the hull planking went on easily. "


Dennis , you ran into a problem , than you figured out a way to fix it -- welcome to the world of scratch building !-- good job !


HOLD FAST !

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Hi Garry,
Yes, I fixed the problem of the transom shape, more or less accurately.
Actually, my point was that the kit design was faulty in that the transom
shape was not well defined. The method I used, making it out of sheet
and gluing it in place like a bulkhead would seem to be a natural way to
do it. Why wasn't the kit so designed ? I am not new to scratch building
but the basic structure of the model should not require it.
Likewise, those curlicues at the bow are a natural for a decal. I am still trying
to figure out how to do them when I get there. Decals require photographic
equipment and a printer that can handle the special ink that will adhere to
the decal film, and a computer,
but are dirt cheap to manufacture when the design is done. Why not put
them in the kit, which now costs almost $200 ?
If I find a way to do the curlicues easily I will post it.
I lived in Liverpool N.S. for about a year in 1942-3. Still a nice little town.

Denis

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Denis --

I have seen many models of the Bluenose , most do not have the design at the bow . Most have some sort of design , but most are not correct . Several of the modelers at the local club have hand painted the curicicues with good results .

you lived in Liverpool in 1942-3 ! - It must have been a different time living in Nova Scotia during the War ? Food rations / material rations/ metal collections , not to mention the variety of "things" no longer available , due to the war effort ? Interesting times !............

cheers

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Hi to all of you.

Would any of you know which Ensigns, Flags and Masthead Pennants could have been worn on the BLUENOSE during races between Canadians and Americans from 1921 on.

Both opinions and factual information would be appreciated but should be identify as such.

Thanks to all of you.

Roger

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Roger,
I have a number of pictures of the original Bluenose in various races. She and all the other racers wore masthead pennants, which (my guess) were plain pennants, triangular or forked, intended only to show wind direction. According to Jenson ("Bluenose ll" by L B Jensen)she would have worn the old Canadian Red Ensign at the mainsail gaff.
The Red Ensign was red (aha!) and had a Union JacK in the upper left
quarter, with a Canadian coat of arms in the lower right quarter. To clarify, the left is the halliard side. None of the racing pictures show this flag clearly.
Pictures of Bluenose ll appear to show the masthead pennants bearing
Nova Scotia's crest, and the ensign is of course Canada's new red & white maple leaf flag flag. Hope this helps.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Roger,
This is to amend my previous posting. Despite what Jensen says, none
of my racing pictures of Bluenose l show any national flag at all! One
or two of the other ships wore flags at mainsail gaff, presumably
national flags. Perhaps the winning ship in each race broke out a
flag - who knows ?
Maybe we should build models of ancient ships - who can argue with
our idea of, say Santa Maria ??

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

It occurred to me that one could print designs or lettering on transparent labels such as those made by Avery for printing addresses on envelopes. One could scan in pictures of scrollwork and the like, add text in any font you like...

I'm going to try that on my Bluenose.

Bill

Automerged Post:
Working on the MS Bluenose. I just glued the bulkheads onto the keel. The instructions say to bevel the bulkheads according to the plan sheet BEFORE gluing them onto the keel. I couldn't make sense of the plans, so I decided to glue them on and fair them much like I did on the Bounty Launch. Although I'll have to use a knife and be more careful, since they are 3/16 plywood. (I'll glue some reinforcing struts between the bulkheads before beveling.)

Am I headed for disaster this way?

Bill

ps. It seems I bevel the bulwark stanchions as well?

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

I think your OK Bill,
I added reinforcing struts and faired the bulkheads on my Bluenose. I did not use a knife, just a sanding block.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

I'm hitting the same issue, and I do not entirely understand your solution. I carved blocks as well as I could from the plans. They fair nicely, but the plans say to notch the quarter frame and transom support into the block, but there's really no wood at the aft end to notch anything into!
Did you make your transom taller, to the top of where the quarter frame would be, and not use quarter frames and transom braces?
I'm attaching pix of what I have done so far, temporarily glued.


Automerged Post:
[QUOTE=Bill]I'm hitting the same issue, and I do not entirely understand your solution. I carved blocks as well as I could from the plans. They fair nicely, but the plans say to notch the quarter frame and transom support into the block, but there's really no wood at the aft end to notch anything into!
Did you make your transom taller, to the top of where the quarter frame would be, and not use quarter frames and transom braces?
Maybe this is a better alternative?

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

I too am tasking upon Bluenose 1. Yes, the plans are somewhat vague, and the book manytimes, contradicts the plans?????
Anyway, like yourself, am plugging along.
Am having some problems with deck planking since part of the plans (BOOK), tell me to plank exactly fore and aft, while another part of the book says to lay the planks following the waterways.
Anyway, keep up the task, and read, read, read, the book and plans.
Hightide.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

I laid the aft deck planks following the waterway. Makes for a more interesting look.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

After a few vacation trips, I'm back to my MS Bluenose II. I was unhappy with the instructions for the main rail. MS supplies laser cut parts for the bow and stern, and says to shape and bend the rest from strip stock.
I was particularly concerned with the stern part. The fake stanchions are not installed, and the stern part's forward extensions only reached as far forward as one stanchion, making it difficult, if not impossible, to maintain a smooth flow forward from that nice curve upward at the transom. And bending and shaping strip stock two ways while maintaining tight scarf joints every 6 inches seemed rather difficult. So I tried an alternative.
First, I made a new stern piece with longer extensions, to reach the 3rd bulwark stanchions.
.
Then I cut the main rail sections from sheet stock, so I had only 2 pieces to fit from the stern to the bow.
I think it came out OK.

Bill

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

I've just started planking MS Bluenose II.
It is not clear to me how to plank under the stern overhang. Do all of the planks run all the way out to the transom, or do some miter at the keel?



Bill

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Bill - have a look at Rick Austin's gallery pics at :

http://modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/ga...236_13.jpg.html


cheers

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Hi Bill,
The planks on the keel do not extend to the transom. Cut them flush with end of keel. The other hull planks do extend to be flush with transom. I have a photo of finished hull in my Bluenose gallery.

Re: Calling All Bluenoser's
 

Thanks. That's what I thought.

Automerged Post:
Thanks. And nice job on the planking.

Bill

Bluenose complete!
 

After about 16 months, my Bluenose it finally done!

The pictures here are a bit small for my taste, so I've posted them on my web site:

http://www.beinert.com/ModelShips/index.html

Thanks again for all of the help and suggestions offered on this board.

My next build will be a pirate ship for my son-in-law, who is seeing if he has room for either the Corsair or the Black Queen.

Bill