Building a display case for your model - by Pete Darius

To begin with, the credit for the basic design of this case is given to a book by Danny Proulx "Display cases you can build". I made a few modifications but basically I built it from the books instructions.

The next detail of case building are the tools required. I'm not a master carpenter and use power tools whenever I can. If you know of a way to cut the mortise and tenons and slots without the use of power feel free to PM me and I'll include it in this article or start another one.

First of all I feel a table saw is the most useful and necessary tool to have for this type of project.

Next would be a router and ideally a router table. However it isn't imperative to have either it just makes certain jobs easier.

A good set of sharp chisels, a folding ruler particularly the type with the sliding extension at one end, a drill with a counter sink bit, and the rest are basic woodworking tools.

The only wood sold at either Lowes or Home Depot is "poplar" or "red oak". If you prefer another type of hardwood you will have to shop on line or visit your local lumber yard. Expect to pay a lot more for the wood but it may make for a nicer looking case.

The main part of the case is the frame, consisting of 4 uprights, 4 long rails, 4 short rails and a base. Everything else is more or less cosmetic.

The size of the case of course is determined by the size of the model. It should be 2 inches larger than the width, length and height including pedestal.

The height is determined by the length of the uprights alone. While the length and width is governed by how thick the uprights are plus the length of the rails.
If you buy 2 inch square stock they measure 1&1/2 inches. A smaller case can use 1 inch square stock that for some reason actually measures 1 inch.

Using 2" sq (1&1/2 x 1&1/2) as an example, cut a slot the thickness of the glass or plexiglass you're using and a depth of 1/8th to 1/4 inch and 1/4th of the way from the edge. The diagram should clear that up.

This would be looking at the upright end on:



Cut all 8 slots on the uprights and all the rails at the same time so that they all meet when put together:





The tenons are next once all the slots have been cut.

If you're going to use 1/4'' plexiglass and you cut the slots 1/4'' then all you need to do is cut the tenons on the ends of the rails to 1/4''. You'll see that the slot in the rails cuts through the tenons on each end. The rails are 1'' & 1/2'' by 3/4'' so as long as the slots in the rails are not more than 1/4'' deep the tenons will be wide enough to hold the frame together. The problem occurs when the slots are 1/8'' for plexiglass or 3/16'' for plate glass. A 1/4'' tenon won't fit into the smaller slot in the uprights. For 1/8'' I cut the slot wider in the uprights with a 1/4'' straight router bit where the tenons will be inserted:



For 3/16'' you can either cut the tenon to 3/16'' or widen the slot in the upright as I did for 1/8''

The final step for the frame is to drill and countersink a hole in each upright, through the tenon, for a 3/4" #6 wood screw. The bottom can also be glued but only screws are used in the top so that the glass can be removed by removing 2 screws in the uprights:





Add a bottom with a frame for the base. A top frame with a piece of plexiglass in it to keep dust and other things out and a little sanding and finish and your case is ready for your model.



I added the legs because I don't have a shelf to put it on.



Feel free to post a comment with any questions or even flames, Pete