Adding the second layer

The second layer of planking the layer that is seen when the model is on display, so this layer must be as perfect as possible. I choose to trunnel all the planks adding more realism.

It is important that the hull is perfectly smooth by now, if not then you cannot proceed!

To correctly implement the second layer of planks we need to now were the tree nails need to go and were the position of all the butt ends are. This would be a easy job if this was a plank on frame model, unfortunately this is a plank on bulkhead model. So what we need to do is convert the plank on bulkhead model into a plank on frame model, thus we need to determine the position of the frames.

Looking at the plans of this ship, you can see that the top of all the frames extend through the deck, the top of the frames are used to attach the gun whale. Thus all we need to do is draw vertical lines on the drawing revealing the position of the frames and the deck beams.

Here is a picture showing the reworked plank, the virtual deck beams have been added.

When the plan is updated with the location of all the frames they can be drawn on the actual model. Transfer the measurement made on the plan to the deck of the ship. Use a pencil to draw the virtual frame from the deck to the keel.

Important is that the frame is square to the keel not the planking. It is difficult to draw a strait line on the curved hull, but you can use some stiff cardboard as guide.

After drawing all the lines, the thickness of the frames has to be determined. You can measure the thickness from the plan.

Here you see a picture of all the virtual frames, front view.

The frames are colored so no mistake can be made when drawing the planking.
Notice that the red frames line up with the deck beams, the green frames stop under the deck.

Because the plank does not show all the detail you need, there are some choices to make when marking the frames.

Here a picture showing the stern frames, they are just a estimation

Be sure that the red deck beams are lined up with the red frames, if not then the running of the deck tree nails looks odd when comparing them with the nails running over the hull. The tree nails only will make the virtual frame stand out, so be sure that all the lines are correct.

Make sure the red deck beams are lined up with the red frames.

Now that all the virtual frames are drawn, we can use them as basis for making the planking tables, instead of using the bulkheads (now hidden by the first layer of planking).

When implementing the virtual frames correctly the model will look like if it was made using the plank on frame method. Only i saved some months on making the actual frames. Needless to say that this "virtual framing" method can only be used on fully planked models.

All the planks will be drawn individually on the hull, using the virtual frames as a basis.

Keep in mind that the position of the frames is only as accurate has the plans supplied with the kit. Ofcourse some research can be done to determine the actual position of the frames, but this will probably affect the build of the model in whole also.

Notice the position of gun ports before marking the frames, draw the frames according to the plan.

Draw the virtual frames using colored pencils, they are temporary. The planking is drawn using a waterproof marker, then the virtual frames can be removed leaving only the plank outlines, positions of butt end and treenail marker.

The frame drawing must be removed prior to planking, otherwise remains of the pencil drawing might get into the glue.

Some after thoughts on the detailing.

Remember that trunneling the hull is optional, and you can leave it out. I am no expert as this is my second build. Adding detailing is no guarantee for a successful model. It is up to the builder what detail to add or leave out.

For instance: I know my deck planking is probably to wide, because I use the wood supplied with the kit which is 5mm wide. The kit suppliers use the same wood over a range of kits regardless the scale. Also my nails might be to big for this model, I didn't check it.

But I am happy with the way it turned out. You build the model for yourself not for others. So don't bother with the details if you don't want to. Leaving out details does not mean the model will be inferior. Maybe it will even be more beautiful than a model with a lot of detail. In the end it is the builders skill that counts, not the number of cannons.

What I want to say is, don't believe blindly all the advise of the so called "experts" including myself. Build the model the way you think is comfortable, building a wooden ship is for fun not to impress others because there will always be someone better than you or me.