Click here to view the full size Ship Modeling Forum Logo Ship Modeling Forum @ shipmodeling.net - A web site forum devoted to the handcrafting of model ships and boats

Click here for Quick Navigation
This site is a member of the Ship Modeler's Calm Seas Guild
Hello Guest! There's a lot to look over, so sit back with a cup of coffee, relax and browse around. We have a great group of ship and boat modelers here, both newbies and old salts, from all over the world. Our goal here is to help each other, without criticism or rebuke. Both newbies and old salts alike can learn from each other. No one has all the answers. Our most basic rule is simple, respect for your fellow members and their opinions. And don't take yourself too seriously! wirewolf (John, AKA - Cap), Forum Administrator
"I only found this forum a month ago and already it has been a lot of help. Many thanks to all." - Pugwash (Guy)
"Signing up on the forum was one of my best moves in modeling that I made and I am sure you will soon agree." - chhbmd (Charlie)
"I can't tell you how much I enjoy coming aboard each day and looking at the material on this site." Read More... - oodygdin (Richard)

Protect your online privacy with iVPN

Go Back   Return to the Forums' Main Page > Articles/Shop Notes > Submitted Articles
Username Password
Problems Logging In - Click Here
Register Users' Guide Projects List Calendar Current Posts Site Map

Statistics | Shop Notes/Tips | Submitted Articles | General Articles | Author's List | Search | Publish
< Previous Article   |   Next Article >
What to Build
Contributed by: wirewolf  (John)
Average Rating : 4.8333/5.00
Published on: 11-20-2003   Views: 6740   Link to this article   »  Bookmark/Share this Article
Article Content

What to Build?

 

An Essay by John (wirewolf), July, 2003

This is not a criticism of what any modeler chooses to do with his or her time and effort. Nor is it an endorsement of any product or manufacturer. This is just my two cents worth on an often discussed topic.  One thing to keep in mind. For most of us, this is a hobby. Having a hobby means doing some thing (pastime) you like to do. Don't take it too seriously. Relax and enjoy your self.

In the following article, any reference to a masculine pronoun (he/his) also means to include the feminine counter part.  Kudos to the lady modelers out there.

   Decisions, decisions!

 ‘What to build’, in my opinion, falls into one of two categories,

 Beginner (Novice) or Pro (Old Hand).

Novice:

For the beginning ship modeler I strongly suggest starting with a "Beginners" kit. Now, this may seem obvious to most readers. But, I have seen many Novice’s (Thinking, "Gee", "That would look great on my mantle piece!") start out with some thing along the lines of; Corel’s, the WAPPEN VON HAMBURG!

There are many fine kits available on the market for the novice modeler. For a novice to start out with an advanced kit, or worse a scratch built model, could prove to be disastrous. This is not meant to be a criticism of a novices’ skill in woodworking. But if you start out with some thing that is over your head, you may quickly get discouraged and give up. Why spend the money and invest the time on a complicated project. Test the waters first. Get a beginners kit and set up a small work area. Join a local modeling club, if available. Look for an internet group or forum. Don’t be afraid to ask for advice. There are many books on this subject; at book stores, libraries and on the internet.

Which model to select? ‘Midwest’ makes a line of "Entry Level" kits which are geared towards the beginning modeler. They may not be as glamorous looking as the "WAPPEN VON HAMBURG", but the novice can learn the basic steps in model making.

If a beginning ship modeler has prior modeling experience with, let’s say, model planes (You know - those cigar shaped looking things, with what I think are called, ‘Wings’). Then, perhaps, he may step up to a more advanced kit. The beginner must let his own skill level be his guide.

I’ll give a word of caution to the beginners about kits. Kit manufacturers are out to make a profit. Their choice of included parts and fittings can be dubious at best. Quite often you will open a brand new, nicely packaged kit and find that the fittings don’t match the era of the vessel, instructions/plans are not accurate and hard to understand, and warped twisted stock. No prejudice intended, but European Kit Manufacturers are infamous for this. Most American Manufacturers tend to be more accurate. Bottom line: do your homework.

Old Hand:

Now, it gets a little more complicated. Well, maybe not that complicated. After all, what a modeler chooses to build, is his decision. Who am I, or anybody else, to dictate? What I wish to point out is, once you decide, at what level do you wish the finished model to be.

By level I mean, quality and standards. Is it going to sit on your mantle piece, for you and your family's' enjoyment? Are you giving it as a gift? Then the level is what you set for your self.

If you are looking to sell your masterpiece to a collector, then the level should be high. If you are selling it to a savvy collector for a lot of money, then the level should be very high.

If you are entering the model into competition, then the level is set by the Official "Rules for Competition", wherever the venue. Too often a modeler has gone into an event, only to find out that his "Masterpiece" is full of flaws.

If it’s going to a museum, either by commission or donation, the level should be extremely high. After all, it's in your name.

 

Quality and Standards:

 

Webster’s Dictionary Definitions:

Quality;

A: degree of excellence

B: superiority in kind *merchandise of quality*

C: a distinguishing attribute: CHARACTERISTIC *possesses many fine qualities*

Standards;

A: something established by authority, custom, or general consent as a model or example: CRITERIA

B: something set up and established by authority as a rule for the measure of quantity, weight, extent, value, or quality

 

Much like beauty, the quality and standard of a ship model is in the eye of the beholder. It must fit into the context of where the finished model is going to wind up. In the above definitions, there are two key phrases. "Degree of excellence" and "something established by authority, custom, or general consent as a model or example: CRITERIA"

The quality for any given model is, of course, in the hands of the model shipwright. It is defined by his ability and his "degree of excellence". Not only is it his ability to work with wood and tools, but also his "artistic" ability. Artist, you say? Yes. A  model shipwright is both an artisan and a skilled craftsman. He is an artist in the sense of his eye for color/proportion/scale and a skilled craftsman in how he applies that artistic sense to the finished model. You build a historically accurate, perfectly scaled, museum quality ship (skilled craftsmanship). You then build the same ship, in a reduced size, set in a Diorama (skilled artistic craftsmanship). We all have our own interpretations of form.

Now we come to the more complex matter, standards. Do I paint the hull? Should I hand carve the Figurehead or use a cast fitting? Should I start with a kit, and throw out all the nice looking, but era incorrect/out of proportion, fittings and make my own? Do a "Scratch" from dubious, unreliable plans?  Why don’t I do something different this time, like a replica of the raft from "Tom Sawyer". Maybe I’ll do an "Admiralty" this time. Follow a "Practicum"? Make a diorama of the entire Spanish Armada? Do I want to show sails? And so on.

In my opinion, the standard for a finished model is dictated by your own "degree of excellence". If you are a serious model shipwright, then you must do every thing in your power to fully research any proposed project and to then follow the proper criteria for that project. You must apply the best and finest detail, as to the scale/proportion and finish, as you can. The bottom line is this: No matter what the form, you must ask yourself, "Have I done the best that I can do?" For in the end, you must be your own worst critic. It's not so much as "What to Build". It is "What I Build" has to be worthy of the time invested. You owe it to yourself and to the craft.

 

Mariners’ Museum Criteria:

Scratch Built:

  • No manufactured items except cordage, chain, and such fastenings as pins and nails.

  • Such materials as dimensioned lumber, sheet metal, tubing, wire, and milled shapes are allowed as raw material.

  • Photo-etched, laser-cut, cast, or similar parts mechanically or chemically duplicated by others from the entrant's original master or pattern, shall be considered as scratch built.

Semi-Scratch built:

  • Models based on scratch built hulls.

  • Fittings designed and produced by others

Kit Built:

  • Models based on commercial kits or hulls.

  • With or without the addition of other commercial fittings or scratch built parts.

Back up to Novice

Merchandise of quality:

Many years ago, while strolling through Mystic Seaport, I came across a rather nice looking wooden model ship sitting in a shop window. The ship had no name. It was marked as being an 1850s' Frigate. I did not recognize it as being any particular frigate I had ever seen, or knew of. No scale given. It was about 24 inches long, with Plank on Bulkhead construction, and seemed to be a compilation of parts from different kits and scratch built. The shop owner explained that it was on sale by consignment from a local modeler for $5,000. The rigging was well done. The scale seemed to be accurate. Many other parts and sections were very nicely done. Some of the fittings were die cast, some looked hand made. All in all, the model was fairly well crafted.

However, there were two outstanding problems; 1. The hull finish was done in High gloss Polyurethane, in two tone, Canary Yellow/Sky Blue, and 2. The sails were plastic. It looked more like a toy than a ship model. $5,000? What was this modeler thinking?

I asked the shop owner how long it had been up for sale. She replied, "About three years". I thought to myself, "No wonder!" Even the shop owner, who admitted to having no expertise in model ships, knew that this model would probably never sell. "Well", she said, "maybe for fifty or one hundred dollars, but certainly not for five thousand". "I tried to tell him", she went on. "But that's what he wants".

He had the ability, but had a poorly placed sense of excellence. If he had just applied the proper criteria, even for a unnamed vessel without documentation, it just might of sold for $5,000. Certainly for more than $100.

 

Apply your own "Degree of Excellence" within the "Proper Criteria"

 No matter what the form.

 

Back up to Quality and Standards

Back to Articles/Shop Notes
Google
Article Options
Author Profile: More articles by wirewolf John:
wirewolf  John
Captain - (Ol' Man)
Join Date: 11-25-2003
Posts: 1864
What exactly does Museum Quality mean

Model Scale Charts - Scale Conversion Chart

Model Scale Charts - Actual Sizes in Standard Drill Sizes

Blackening of Metal Parts

Fully Rigged Ship Sketches

Similar articles of interest
Article TitleAuthorPublished Date
Building a Wood Lathe vwmiller 05-03-2013
Insurance for Models Nautical Research Journal 06-24-2004
How do I bend wood for a ship model Rob Macks 08-24-2005
Comments
No comments yet
 

Some recommended ship modeling books:
Ship Modeling Simplified
The Ship Model Builder's Assistant
Plank On Frame Models/Scale Masting & Rigging
Ship Modeling from Scratch
Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern
Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders
Ship Modeling Forum's Amazon Store | Recommended Modeling Books

New Feature - Search the Forum's Amazon Associate without leaving the Forum's Site.
Select from the drop down menu, enter your keyword(s) and hit "GO"!


Support the Forum
Fellow Shipmates', if you like this website, and would like to give something in return, you can make a donation (Please, small donations). Your donation will be used to pay for hosting service, domain, & maintenance costs. Click here to Donate. Another way you can help to support the Forum is to purchase custom designed gifts from the Forum's Ships' Store, or shop for items in the Forum's Amazon Store. We also have a New Feature - Search the Forum's Amazon Associate without leaving the Forum's Site. Select from the drop down menu, enter your keyword (s) and hit "GO"! Thank you, John (Cap)

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:11 PM.
 
Posting - Publishing - Features - Benefits - Privacy - Contact Us - Archive - Model Ships - Academy Photo Gallery

"There are good ships, and there are wood ships, the ships that sail the sea."
"But the best ships are friendships, and may they always be." Old Irish Saying

vBulletin Version 3.0.9
© 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
© 2000 - 2013, Ship Modeling Forum
Ship Modeling Forum - A web site forum devoted to the handcrafting of model ships and boats.