The most tedious part of shipmodeling has got to be hull planking. I think hull planking makes many modelers mad or quit modeling all together. Most of the manuals provided with the kit state in one line "plank the hull." Right!

Some kits have photos included to guide you with the process of planking the hull, but as I found out the pictures generally show how it is not to be done. My first kit is build right out the box and also I used the photos supplied with the kit to guide me through the planking process. All went well and I was content with the result. Before I started on another ship I did some extended research and ordered some books concerning period ship construction. I also visited nautical museums and reconstructions of period ships.

Comparing the results of the research with the build of my first ship, I noticed that the planking was actually incorrect. The photo's supplied with the kit also showed the incorrect run of the planks. I think, and this is also stated in certain books, that the planks always ran from bow to stern. So the same numbers of planks are running the entire length on the ship.

So this is wrong:


Now, on my second ship I want to try it the right way. There are allot of methods to determine the run of the planks but I use the following method: Before starting to take measurements on the hull, lay two planks on the model. the garboard (first plank at the keel, this plank needs to be tapered) and the first plank below the deck. When this is done a table has to be drawn showing all the bulkheads and the distance between to two planks. It is important that the curve is taken into account when measuring the distance.

Here is a picture of the starting point, notice the table with all the measurements:


When all measurements are done, compare the distances of the left and right side of the hull, notice that they should be equal for each bulkhead. Now divide all distances with two and mark a line on the bulkhead. For example: Distance bulkhead = 100 mm, then mark a line at 50 mm.

Perform this exercise for all the bulkheads on both sides. After marking all the bulkheads, lay a test plank from bow to stern along the marks on the bulkheads. Eye test the run of the plank along the hull and pin it down. It is best that the plank follows exactly the markers, but if not then adjust the test plank and rerun the measurement table in order to compromise for the deviation between the test plank and the marker.

Here is a picture showing all the markers on each bulkhead:


Write down all distances in the table, and measure the width of the planks you are going to use. Now take the largest bulkhead distance from the table and divide the numbers with the width of the plank. For example: Largest distance bulkhead = 45 mm Width plank = 5mm

So we need to run 45/5 = 9 planks, from bow to stern from keel to the middle markers or from the deck to the middle markers. Note: In total we need 2*45 mm / 5 mm = 18 planks to cover the largest bulkhead distance. Note that the largest distance can be found amidships and the smallest at the bow.

The next step is to calculate the amount of material that has to be taken of the plank at a each bulkhead. Perform this exercise by subtracting the largest distance with the distance of the other bulkheads. For example: Bulkhead A distance = 30 mm

This means that the width of the 9 planks cannot exceed 30 mm. Calculate the width of a single plank by dividing the 30 mm by the number of planks. In our example: Bulkhead A distance = 30mm / 9 planks = 3.33 mm

The width of the material to be taken of each plank can be calculated by the difference between the largest distance and the distance of the bulkhead A. Thus: Largest distance 45 mm - Bulkhead A distance 30 mm / 9 planks = 1.66 mm

Note that adding both results should show the original width of the plank, 1.66 mm + 3.33 mm = 5 mm. Write down all the results for each bulkhead in the table.
Of course, no one can measure 1.666666 mm, and that accuracy is not desired when performing the first layer of planks so a little trick can be used to speed up the process.

Make some paper lengths and perform the next exercise for each bulkhead: Mark a line on the paper strip measuring ~3.3 mm from each other and take the measurements over on the bulkhead by running the marked paper strip along it. Now not all plank have a exact equal width but this is good enough for the first layer. One benefit for this is that each single plank is marked on the bulkheads.

Numbers all the markers and the position of the bulkhead on the plank then sand it. Notice: broken planks can be repaired as can be seen here:


It helps to put numbers at the markers to prevent any mistakes in lining up the plank against the wrong marker. The planks can now be put on and should follow the markers placed on each bulkhead. It is best to test run the plank first and mark the bulkhead positions on the plank. Then lookup the plank width in the measurement table at that given bulkhead and sand the plank to that width. Needless to say that the plank must be sanded to a smooth line going along all the markers.

Make sure each plank has the same width at a given bulkhead, planks run all the way from bow to stern:


There are some things to take into account:
a) Planks tend to creep up at the bow and fan out at the stern. It is important that all the planks must follow the markers. When this is impossible, then rerun all the measurements.
b) Planks are never tapered half their length. So if the original plank is 5 mm in width then no more than 2.5 mm can be taken of the plank at a certain point. If this is the case then use a stealer or rerun the measurement table.
c) Count the number of planks supplied with the kit and compare the count with the number of planks required.
d) Mark the location of the bulkhead on the keel because if you don't, then it is possible that your drill will meet some copper nails when trunneling the second layer.

Another picture, the first half is almost done:


When planking the hull using the thick wood supplied then some problems might occur at the stern of the ship. Some planks on the hull need to be twisted to compensate for the angle at the stern. Some planks might and some do not lay perfectly flat on the stern causing ridges to appear between the planks. These ridges must be filled with either wood filler or a mixture from saw dust and white glue. After applying the filler and sanding the area the stern should be fine.

Here's a picture of such repair, before sanding:


When the first half of the hull is planked from keel to the waterline, then the rest of the hull can be planked from the deck to meet the existing planking. Using this method you are assured that the top planks follow the sheer (deck) line, and the lower planks follow the (garboard keel) line. The plank in the middle will compromise between the two runnings.

The same method used for planking the lower planks can be applied to the upper planking. So again create the measurement table, take all the bulkhead measurements and determine the width of a single plank at a given bulkhead. Mark all the bulk heads and start applying the planks.

Here is a picture of the upper planking marks:


Make sure you keep following the marks you made or else there won't be any room for the remaining planks. This problem is most evident at the bow of the ship were the bulkhead circumference is smaller compared to the amidship bulkheads.

Here is a picture showing the running of the lower and upper planks:


After finishing the hull it is advised to drain (coat) the hull using white glue. This procedure ensures that all the planks become hard and are glued to each other. A hard solid hull is required before starting with the second layer. Of course you can glue the planks together during the planking phase, but once the plank is glued it's difficult to get it off when a error slips in. It is also possible to omit the nails when gluing in the planking phase, but its possible to plan the virtual frames such way that the nails can be avoided. It is also possible to drill right through the nail to using a mill. Anyway, I prefer the gluing after the planking is finished.

Gluing the hull:


When all is finished the hull can be sanded leaving a smooth hard planking job strong enough to support the second layer (if you so choose). But this is another story yet to come.

All finished!