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Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 12-11-2011, 05:12 PM
Hull coppered (whew). Deck in place. I did give up the waterways and moved onto the scuppers. They are comming out better than expected. I'll be adding a pic or two to my gallery later tonight.

Posted by - j_lefever
Post date - 12-11-2011, 08:53 PM
Richard

As noted in the gallery, looks like a good start. More pictures are always welcome.

Jim

Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 12-11-2011, 09:56 PM
SO YOU WANT TO BUILD A BOAT EH?

As a new comer to building model ships, this is what I've learned so far while building my first model NY Pilot boat Phantom. Since this model is still a work in progress, if you're reading this hopefully you can avoid some of the pitfalls and mistakes I've made so far (and in the future). If you're an experienced builder maybe this will bring back not-so-fond memories.

The Phantom is recommended for newbies like me for a reason, first it's relatively cheap. It's small (which I think adds to the difficulty). You can get Chuck Passaro's practicum online for free. Directions for model ships seem to be lacking in clarity (so far).

If you are anything like me, you've maybe built plastic car/plane models as a kid. When you get some thing that needs assembling you start building and only look at the pictures on the directions occasionally as you go (look it came with extra screws and bolts, how nice). So now you're older, more mature and it's time to have a real manly type hobby.

Well STOP! Lesson one, read all the directions several times, learn the lingo first, all directions are written for retired sailors and lobster fisherman. ( the big pole in the middle of the ship is a MAST). The string all over the ship is called RIGGING. I'm sure when I get to that stage of this build there will be inspiration for another story, (or a suicide note).

Anyway, lessons of the Phantom. When cutting out the patterns for the hull shape cut them out carefully, there is no such thing as "close enough". Be patient when sanding, and sanding, and sanding, and sanding, check the shape with the pattern which are designed to show you how much fun sanding is. (Did I mention the sanding?)

Also remember no matter how many recommended tool lists there are, none will include the tool you'll need. This is a good thing because manly hobbies should require obscene amounts of unique tools. (ie. Tim the "Toolman"). I've had to stop many times because I needed a specific tool, order it, wait for delivery etc. Do not start to work on another part of the build while you wait, you'll get halfway through and will have to stop because...you guessed it, you'll need another tool you don't have. Don't waste your time at Sears or Home Depot.

Now if all the sea terms and obscure tools aren't enough Model Designers will throw the metric system at you. I for one, hope the metric system goes the way of the Euro.

If you made it this far, you are a glutton for punishment, a quote from The Outlaw Josey Wales comes to mind, " Endeavor to Persevere ".

After your doctor clears you to continue, ( that hacking cough was from saw dust, not tuberculosis). It's time to play with the copper tape in the kit, don't worry there won't be enough. Since the Phantom is so small you can't use the precut ones you can order online. Instead you'll have to cut the tape into individual plates, 1/16"x1/8" or as small as possible so that you cant see them let alone have square edges, (they have to be square so you can trim into polygons later.)

One mistake I made was to paint the hull first. It doesn't affect the ridiculous stickiness of the tape, but it makes it impossible to see the lines you'll need to draw on the hull. Drawing straight lines on curved surfaces is a project unto itself. I particularly enjoyed trying to peel the back off of microscopic squares. Note to self, DECAF.

Don't forget to research #11 Xacto blade, it is the regular one it turns out. I have yet to find pictures of which blade is what. (#11 refers to the number of stitches you'll need in your thumb). Manly hobbies require the shedding of blood.

As a side note to Mr. Passaro, "... These techniques will be demonstrated in class..." Arrrgghh.

After finishing the coppering or as I call it, "Coniption Induction", you'll have to sand the deck (floor), but since this is a model the idea is NOT to sand it flat, (cough). It seems a ships deck sloped for water to run off.

The kit comes with scribed decking to apply on your non flat deck. The plans that come with the kit are used a lot for reference to remind you how misshapen your ship is. To cut the decking you have to trace it from the plans onto the back of the decking. I say again, onto the BACK. After dry fitting it, (it won't fit), you'll have to (cough) sand it into shape, but don't worry I'll demonstrate it in class.

The next step is the waterways, kind of like a baseboard that is put along the outer edge of the decking, presumably to keep the water from running off. I tried several methods of cutting this 1/16" piece several times and ended up giving up.

On to the scuppers, drainage holes for the water that gets on the deck at a higher level of the waterways. STOP time to order a dremel type tool, and microscopic drill bits. Be sure that the chuck, (The threaded grippy thing that holds the bit) will be small enough. FYI the directions on how to use dremel tools were written by model designers.

Anyway I managed to drill the scuppers out, then smoothed out to holes with the micro sized files that I ordered two months ago. Boo-Yaah!

TBC

***Chuck Passaro's practicum has been an invaluable tool, thank you sir.

Posted by - hamdul
Post date - 12-12-2011, 12:53 AM
Richard,
I couldn't have said it better myself.....................Sounds like your'e having fun
Fred

Posted by - Rokowski
Post date - 12-12-2011, 04:53 PM
Phantom: I noticed in your photo you had a green mat with measurements on it. Where can I acquire one and how much was it.

Thanks Rokowski

Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 12-13-2011, 10:36 AM
Cutting mat is from model expo, in expensive prices depend on the size.

Posted by - jemontgomery
Post date - 12-14-2011, 04:46 AM
Steve:
You can also get one (much cheaper) from any craft store. Quilting and sewing uses these mats to lay-out,measure, and cut fabrics. They are "self healing" so you can cut material on them.

Craft stores are a good source of tools and materials. Many of tools used in beading, sewing, quilting, painting, etc. can be used in modeling.

Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 12-18-2011, 10:56 PM
Well I've finished the stantions, of course the wood I need for the caprail is on back order as well as some other doodads. I've been using my time to get my work space in order. Needless to say my organizational skills are shameful, but I "endeavor to persevere ".

Posted by - Navarone
Post date - 12-19-2011, 06:50 AM
Remember Richard all the work you put into your model makes it unique and adds character. I think you're doing a great job. If it will help you, check out my photo album.

Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 12-23-2011, 09:04 PM
Thanks, pics look great. It's a big help to see the work in progress.

Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 01-05-2012, 10:42 AM
Well I finally did it. I made what may prove to be my first lethal mistake. I am working on my first build, the phantom and after waiting for some wood to be delivered I realized that my stansions are about 3x to big. I was preparing to do the caprail when I realized my mistake.

I have been using chucks practicum and was sure I had everything pretty close. After gluing the stansions in place I went on to other aspects of the build while waiting for the sheet for the caprail in the mail. Well it came and I traced it out and shaped it easy enough but when I went to test fit it I found my mistake.

To fix it I marked the tops of each stansion and will try to trim them down. My fear is that it will mangle the deck surface. I figure if I can trim them I can sand off the glue. I may have to stain/paint the deck a little darker to hide the blemishes.

That all being said, if I fail I may have to scrap the whole ship. The up side is I have absolutely learned a lot and do not think of my time on this build waisted. I have other kits waiting so we'll see. I will post some pics later today of the process, that is of course if someone has a better solution.

Posted by - j_lefever
Post date - 01-05-2012, 05:02 PM
Hi Richard

I think we all have been in a similar spot... In this case, my favorite tool is a really sharp chisel that can be used to pare down the sides of the stanchon in thin slices. The same tool can be used flush with the deck to nip off the shavings. The key is to make thin cuts and keep the tool sharp enough to make the cut without using the force which will cause you to slip and gouge the deck.

Jim

Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 01-10-2012, 05:16 AM
Got them trimmed, Not too much damage to the deck, and I have the caprail trimmed as well.

Posted by - rbs256
Post date - 01-30-2012, 03:39 PM
Caprail installed and stained, masts shaped and stained as well. I'll add pics later.

Posted by - mgordon
Post date - 02-22-2012, 02:46 PM
Hi Steve. Getting ready to start Model Shipways Constitution. Your ship looks great. I live in Sunny Florida. Do you have a thread on your ship?