Morania, [I've re-edited my earlier version of this message, now that I have the magazine in hand.]

The November/December 2004 issue of Seaways' Ships in Scale shows a skipjack on the cover. Inside you'll find the final part of Kurt Van Dahm's four-part series on building (and kit-bashing) the Model Shipways kit Willie L. Bennett, a Chesapeake Bay Skipjack of 1899.

If you have access to back issues, you will probably find a wealth of info.

- Tom

Hi Morania,

I have a Model Shipways WILLIE L. BENNETT under construction. So far, it's been a piece o'cake. The keel is now complete. I've installed the chine logs and the port side planking (one piece) and waitng for the adhesive to set up for 24 hours before laying up the starboard side. While I'm waiting for stuff to set up, I work on prepping the Britannia metal casing for painting, assembled the dredge winch and building the winch engine cover, cabins, hatch, etc.

This kit requires a great amount of fabrication. The only laser cut wood pieces are the molds, keelson, and stern. But it is definitely a first rate kit . The prints are very good and the manual, although sometimes a bit confusing, is also very good.

Best of luck. Keep us posted on how your WLB is coming along.

Cheers,

Al Bisasky
Sykesville, Maryland

I ended up getting the Midwest Skipjack. It's more of an open folk built Jack. It will fall right in with the Flattie that this guy bought from me. The models will look good side by side since they'll carry the same style and colors.

Just finished the Midwest Skipjack kit. Instructions were great (sometime too detailed). Attachment of rudder to hull real stupid. I used home made copper plates and attached so that rudder can turn. Made plates from copper wire that I heated and flattened. If you are making the sails, don't finish painting the mast until the main sail is completed. Lower white portion of mast should be below boom. If sail is not exactly as per plans, white demarkation will be in wrong place. Also, don't sand everytime the instructions tell you to (scuppers, e.g.). Your arm will fall off. A knife works fine too. Bow blocks were way too big. Use a power Dremmel to sand, not knife and sandpaper.

Thanks for the advice. I know about bow blocks now. I have some diamond hard balsa wood in the Katy model I'm doing. Rough going even witha Dremel cutoff head.

I am building Model Shipways Skipjack kit and found their recommended rudder mount was stupid; don't know if it is the same as Midwest kit. But, could you provide a sketch or photo of the method you devised? My frustration level is currently very high with this kit. Thanx for any help you can provide.

fhmarch@charter.net

Fred,

Are you referring to the rudder horns

Charlie

I have made a rudder (actually two), it is the attachment to the stern post that I find frustrating. It seems flimsy and non-prototypical (?). I thought about making large hinges from brass as an alternative. I am trying to get the hull details to a point where i can start painting. Thanks.

Thanks also to Tom, I am trying to find back issues of Ships in Scale. My next stop is a visit to our local library to see if they can find this article in state.

Fred,

I used a drafting caliber and transferred the measurements from the drawings to the rudder then the pre-drilled holes for the eyes. After setting the eyes in the rudder, I set the rudder against the sternpost and marked the bottom side of the rudder eyes. It still need some adjustments and still is not perfect but worked. Nothing beats a try but a failure. I put some new picture in my skipjack gallery that shows the rudder.

Charlie