Any hints or tips on tapering masts, spars etc to the needed conical shape? Specifically asking how to go about it by hand, due to lack of proper electrical tools.
thank you
Linda

Have a look at this shop tip:
http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=9
Hope this helps. If you have any more questions, be sure to ask.
John

Good afternoon Linda! Personally, for masts, I start with square stock and use a spokeshave to round the mast out. I first mark off and carve out any square cuts, such as where the tops go on, to keep everything square. Then I spokeshave the mast to round. For yards, I start with round stock, mark of easily found reference points, such as where stirrups are, and notch out to thw proper circumferance (sp?). Then shave close to shape with spokeshave and finish with sandpaper. Hope this helps! If you need any clarification, please feel free to ask me!
Fred

Thanks for both replies. Much appreciated...am researching all that I can on the subject and am at a point where I am reeady to do some dry runs as practice.
thanks once again

Tried this and it works just fine. Thanks.
Randy Evers

Hi Linda,

It's been awhile, didn't know you were a member here. Hope you're doing well.

Here's what I've been doing lately to taper my mast,(poor-mans lathe :=) ) I put my drill in my bench-vise, and chuck my dowel into the drill. I have a jig made from plywood at 90% with a nail set into it. I line this up with the other end of the dowel, which has a small hole drilled into the end of it, just big enough for the nail, and attach. I spin the drill for a sec to set the jig, then secure the jig to the table. Turn on the drill, and it acts as a lathe. I then use either a file, or sandpaper to work the mast into shape. Works quite well, but a little tricky when trying to turn the Top-Gallant, and Royal-Mast.

Regards,
Gerald :build:

One process that works is a variation of those described below.

When using the belt sander, flat spots are the constant worry. If you chuck the rounded wood blank into a drill (on low speed), and then lightly apply to the sander, this isn't a worry. This would primarily work on the larger pieces.

Always use safety glasses for any of these procedures and Iwould recommend mechanix gloves found at any hardware store.

Mark

Hi Linda,

It's been awhile, didn't know you were a member here. Hope you're doing well.

Here's what I've been doing lately to taper my mast,(poor-mans lathe :=) ) I put my drill in my bench-vise, and chuck my dowel into the drill. I have a jig made from plywood at 90% with a nail set into it. I line this up with the other end of the dowel, which has a small hole drilled into the end of it, just big enough for the nail, and attach. I spin the drill for a sec to set the jig, then secure the jig to the table. Turn on the drill, and it acts as a lathe. I then use either a file, or sandpaper to work the mast into shape. Works quite well, but a little tricky when trying to turn the Top-Gallant, and Royal-Mast.

Regards,
Gerald :build:
I am woodturner and have seen an article for turning long spindly things which works on another principle than a centre!!!!!!!!!!!

it uses a chuck mounted on or in a small engineers screw vice which is chucked onto the loose end then pulling instead of pushing as with a centre thus there is less chance of a very thin turning snapping under presure, I will search my magazine collection and see if I can find the article which explains it better than I can, I have done a little drawing showing something like which can be homemade its in my gallery ok. hope this is of help
mick

as you can figure out the piece is now being stretched and will be more stable I am able to turn very thin pieces using this idea, ok!!