The thin CA just seems to flood out, and I panic-ly adhere parts as quickly as I can. I'm new, obviously not looking for a work of art, but still want it nice.

So now I see that what used to look wet along the seams of parts glued is now a slightly darker color. Looks like oil stains.

I think the inside is my primary concern - the box cover art has the inside look like natural wood, maybe it's just protected with something? Will this go away when I paint and/or finish?

Midwest Crabbing Skiff is the project.

I use brush-on CA almost exclusively. It goes where you put it and you can control the amount easily.
I don't understand the remainder of your question.
Mike

I don't know how else to explain it - when the glue dried along the seams, it darkens the wood a little bit - makes it obvious I used glue. It's the fact that the thin CA is really thin and comes out fast.

I just want to know if it will still look that way when I use a finish or paint (will it bleed through?). It's a chemical after all.

I have a similar problem as I'm working on my first model (the Midwest Dinghy). I switched early on to a gel-type CA glue (on the advice of another Shipnetter) to give it more working time, and so that I could apply a more thin layer - the "watery" CA was drying to fast to bend and fit the pieces on.

I had some spots like you where some of the CA was smeared and caused a darkening of the wood - I was able, for the most part, to lightly sand the glue out using 400 grit sandpaper. Just be careful not to sand the edges off of some nearby piece.

I don't know if the finish you ultimately use will hide or blend the spots in. I haven't gotten that far yet.

Good luck.

Don

paint will cover ca stains very well.

Unless you are using solid paint the glue will show through. If you stain the wood, the glue spots won't absorb the stain and will look terrible. You can usually sand the CA without too much trouble.
Mike

Thanks for the responses. I'll have to find some small sanding tools to get into the tight spaces - sanding block isn't going to cut it methinks.

If you leave the wood natural color and use only polyurethane to cover it you should not have this problem. The polyurethane seems to blend in with the natural wood color naturally and you cannot see the CA. Have done this on many models and it has never failed (yet)

I use wood glue almost exclusively. It takes more time and patience but gives you plenty of time to work the pieces, allows you to wipe up any excess, sands and finishes nicely with paint or natural finishes. I only use CA if I have somwthing that requires a quick set.

I use wood glue almost exclusively. It takes more time and patience but gives you plenty of time to work the pieces, allows you to wipe up any excess, sands and finishes nicely with paint or natural finishes. I only use CA if I have somwthing that requires a quick set.

I'm there with you on this one. I like the drying time involved. It gives me plenty of time to plan the next step, or bask in the horror of a foul up. #-o

Rob...I would set aside the thin CA and stick with the "gap-filling" thicker CA. I only use CA on rigging. Good wood glue on the wooden hulls. If I didn't have CA and the accelerator I'd never get any rigging done. Any discoloration (usually white) on the work is easily covered with paint. I used a water-based paint always.
Allan

Rob, I agree with Alan. I rarely use thin CA glue except for situations where parts fit together with no need to manipulate them, i.e., building a deck house structure or something. It does grab super fast. I also use yellow Elmer's glue, thinned or not, for almost all applications with wood to wood gluing. I use thinned yellow glue for painting rat lines after they are done to set the knots. It works great and is super strong. Incidentally, the CA glue will be hidden on natural wood with polyurathane varnish, which I also use for all of my final coats. Good luck, Dennis Clark