Beeswax is usually sold in "Cakes" held in a plastic container with slots to allow you to "Draw" the line through. Another method, which I use, is to immerse the line in a vat of hot beeswax. There are special wax smelters sold in craft stores. They are commonly used by candle makers.
With that said, why use beeswax at all?
1- It coats the rigging line, thus protecting it and keeping down the "Fuzzes" and "Fizzes".
2- It will stay on the thread a long time
3- Reduces curling and twisting
4- Helps to keep knots in place
5- Makes the line more pliable and "lay" in a more natural position (Good for foot ropes, anchor ropes and any line that would usually not be under tension, such as stay or running rigging.)...............more..................
To read the full text, Go to the "Shop Notes" page http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=16

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to keep this one in mind for when I get to rigging my model. (A long way off!). Have to finish building it first!

Question, would the "scratch" builders want to keep their own beehive and collect the beeswax them selves? #-o
Just being facetious.

A problem I had with rigging shrinkage showed up years after completion of my plastic models. The storage area was not too humid or dry but the lines did shrink anyway. I used beeswax on the rigging but the spars, masts, everything... was either warped or broken from the stress. When I rigged the lines I'm sure they were not too tight.

I certainly want to avoid any shrinking in the rigging in the future. Aside from pre-shrinking the string in the washer and dryer! LOL
Will beeswax, properly applied, really prevent it? Or does some shrinkage have to be expected?

Not really. Beeswax keeps the lines from getting fuzzy but doesn't do much for reducing shrinkage. About the only thing you can do for that is not to make the lines overly tight. Depending on where you live, humidity can play havoc with lines on a model.

Thanks for the tips using beeswax. I understand diluted white glue is also used on rigging lines. Are there advantages and disadvantages to each? I'm concerned about the knots coming loose, and would use a touch of varnish on the knots if I use white glue on the rigging. What do you do to prevent knots from coming loose when beeswax is used on the lines?

Thank you for your replies!

Well, white glue works about the same as beeswax. It keeps the "fuzzies" down and is good for stiffening the lines, like for foot ropes and ratlines. The varnish will tack the seizing and knots, but white glue is good for that also. White glue and varnish will leave a slight 'matte' finish to the lines, so you may want to touch up with a little paint after wards. I'd avoid using CA glue. It will leave a crystallized look and may eventually break. If you have a knot that needs to be held fast, before white glue has a chance to set, then tack the knot with a little dab of varnish (oil based, not the water type). The beauty of using white glue is that you can coat a line and pre shape it, and it will stay in that position. Like, you tie a line around a belaying pin and you want to have some extra line "drape" down to the deck. Typically the line thread used in modeling tends to "spring" back and doesn't stay where you want it to. Coat the line with a little watered down white glue, and position it where you want. I find that on stay rigging, the white glue will "show" up more than on running rigging.
As for using beeswax, I found that the "hot" method works the best: :wink:
http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=16

I used floor wax, white and brown, it worked fine also.

Question, would the "scratch" builders want to keep their own beehive and collect the beeswax them selves? #-o
Just being facetious.
Surely as the rigging was tared then the use of "stockholm tar"is the answer.?
Slightly thin the "tar " with metholated spirits and leave to dry oyer night then the serving can be applied.Mind you I wire core all my standing rigging