Clayton,
My evenings are pretty free after 9 or 10. I usually work an hour or two a night, after all, sleep is highly over rated. This weekend I spent about 6 hours total.
I have not tried to blacken the parts although the website "Ship modelling for dummies" shows how it is done in a video. I have been using my black Sharpie. A couple of coats works very well. I used it on all of the cleats, eyebolts and the traveller. I painted the fife rail with thinned black paint that came with the kit. I used the black wire that came with the kit for the guards around the stovepipe and for the belaying pins on the caprail.
As for wire, I've found several different colors and guages at Michael's Craft store. For the two lights I used a paper clip. If you have brass wire, try using a black Sharpie to blacken it. It works and it is pretty permanent.
Note: making the moldings around the window of the skylight was a real tester. I almost wished I had cut it out of manilla folder and glued it over the blackened "windows." I'm not happy how it looks but since it is my first model, I am trying to not let it bother me.
Mike

I cheated on the chainplates and deadeyes. As you can see from the attached picture I used 24g black wire to make the chainplates. (Thanks for the tip Mike; I picked some up at a Michael's craft store.) It may not be technically correct, but it won’t be too obvious on the final product. After bending a loop in the wire I ‘popped’ the deadeye in, the glued it with CA. Then it was easy to drill a hole in the caprail for this relatively small diameter chainplate. It is impossible to see in the second picture, but I left the chainplates full length and CA’ed them to the hull.

The fairleads were easy to do, following Chuck’s instructions. I also followed his suggestion for bending the splash rail and using wire for the belaying pins.

Next: structures! I am looking forward to that. Mike (imforgvn) I was going to reference your pictures of the structures that you completed, but they are not in the thread tonight. I wonder if that is because I am on dial-up at home?

Clayton,
Your "cheating" was well worth it. The chainplates look great. I must be nuts because I actually enjoyed drilling 3 tiny holes in tiny strips of brass to make mine.
I've experienced a pretty major setback and don't know quite what to do about it. I drilled the forward mast hole too far to starboard and too far aft.I was thinking of filling the hole, relocating it and patching the old hole with left over decking. My second thought was that it is my first model, it isn't too far off and no one will notice it except me. So, I'm going to toss a coin to help make my decision.
As to the picture, I tried to post it but an error came up saying I had already posted it eslewhere. I had to rename it and put it in another folder to get it uploaded (it should be here now). I still can't figure out how to upload pictures other than the ones that I attach to the post. Any suggestions?
Mike

Mike,

Thats exactly what you should do. Move the hole and patch up the existing with some left over decking. You can always place a coil of rope from your running rigging over that patch and noone will ever see it. It will be there as a constant remionder until yoyu finish the rigging though. Things like this have happened to me and that was my solution. Looking at the mistake until I managed to cover it with a rope coil will annoy you to the end so prepare yourself for that. I want to mention that it is looking terrific though and you should be proud of your results either way.

Chuck

Clayton,
I still can't figure out how to upload pictures other than the ones that I attach to the post. Any suggestions?
Mike

Mike, here is how to get pictures in the thread (from Chuck):

"I have my own web space where I host the pictures. You could also put them on one of the many free spaces on the web for photo albums. Yahoo has them for instance. Then I link over to them in the post. Click on the insert image button on top of your post and copy the web address in the pop up window that appears. Then click OK. It works well.
-Chuck"

I did this to get the forward caprail picture into a post. It worked but you have to leave the images in the original website location or they get lost. I tried this by deleting the image from my site, then re-checking this thread. As you can now see it is now a big square hole in the post..

I am going to try to insert an image that I have in one of my albums in this forum:

http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/data/706/014_phantom_fittings.jpg

**************************************************
Edit - Clayton, you were linking with an img code to the page (the page is a url code) where the photo is located, not to the image itself. Fixed it. Cheers, John

Edit - Thanks John!

So Mike, what are you going to do about the mast hole? I am curious because as I was placing the traveler last night I wondered how accurate my two mast holes are. There are so many structures crowded onto the aft deck that there is not much room for error, especially when considering the rake of the main mast.

I measured as carefully as possible, but is sure is easy to make a mistake. It also seems like my total deck length is about 3/8” longer than what is shown on the plans. Did you notice this as well?

Chuck,
Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I was leaning towards moving and patching but didn't quite know how to hide the deck repair. A coil of rope is a good idea. I was also thinking of finding a small mastiff or other large dog to have laying down on that area of the deck. What good is a ship without a dog?? Again, thanks for all your help.
Clayton, ,
I guess that does it. I'm going to repair, move, install dog/coil of rope. I can sleep now...
I didn't notice the difference in the deck length vs the plans. I will check tonight and let you know. I'm afraid everything is off a bit.
I will also try to post some pictures via your instructions.
Mike

Hey Mike, I am really looking forward to starting on the deck structures and furniture (is that the correct term for the fife rail and stuff?) The model has been enjoyable up to this point, but to me it will start to look more complete with the structures on it. Did it seem that way to you as well?

Right now it seems like I can work for two hours on little things, and when I am done the Phantom looks exactly like it did before I started. Perhaps I am working very sloooowly... HA

Good luck with the repair. I think that the dog is a good idea. Where do you find something like that?

~Clay

I must agree that building the structures and actually placing them was rewarding. I've taken it fairly slow too. When I go back and look at the pictures of the bare hull, it is hard to beleive I'm to the point that I am. It almost looks like a real ship.
As far as the dog, there are SO MANY sources on the internet for stuff. I just need to find the right sized dog. I don't doubt that I will to. Gives me something to do at 2 a.m.!

Good luck with the dog search. I am looking forward to seeing pictures of where you're at....

I wonder if anyone else besides you and I (and Chuck) is even reading this thread anymore........

I just read all the way through this thread. I should get my kit Monday (Oct 30) and think that what I have read here should be very helpful I am thankful that everybody took the time to post so much about this kit.

Daniel

Hey Daniel, welcome to the thread! What made choose the Phantom? Is this your first build?

You will have noticed that most of the people who have been posting in this thread are neophytes to ship modeling, so we have been learning quite a bit from each other.

I hope that this forum (and this thread) are a help to you - and I am sure that we will learn from you as well. If I was not participating in this thread I am not sure that I would be trying so hard or doing so well with the Phantom. Thiss has been alot of fun so far....

~Clay

u r right clayton. i am on my first build and i think i would have given up without this site. the most difficult thing i have tried(other than marriage).
i worked with my hands for 40 years and thought i was good, maybe i wasnt as good as i thought.

This will be my first build. This will actually be my first attempt at working with wood for any kind of a building project as well. I have always liked to build things and was thinking about trying some plastic models since I did that as a child and just ended up at the model expo site while I was looking up different modeling stuff on the web. The Phantom seemed like a natural choice since I could get the credit toward the next model if I enjoy building it and want to do another.

So I guess if I want to be honest I would have to say I decided to try it on a whim but I am a cuirous kind of person and ship building interest me so I think I will see it through and keep it up long enough to build some planked models after I learn a little about woodworking on my first one or two kits.

Daniel

Well, I'm finished with phase 1. :banna: If I were to grade myself I'd give me a B.
I must say making the gaskets on the bowsprit was the most tedius and delicate process of phase 1. I first tried gluing wire as per the practicum but I just couldn't get them all the same size and shape and just wasn't happy with the look so I tried to dissasemble the jib stays from the bowsprit and ended up breaking the bowsprit. So I started over again and used thread which I then applied CA to in order to give it some stiffness which allowed me to bend it down. I posted a picture of the bowsprit and the finished hull. Now I get to try my hand at rigging for the first time.
My repair went well. You can't hardley notice it and the fife rail covers most of it.
Onward ho.

Its looking good. You work quickly. Those gaskets were a pain in the butt, I agree. I think yours look great and offer another technique to all future builders. keep the pictures coming.

Chuck

Yeah Mike, looking good! Great idea using the thread for the gaskets, I might give that a try when I finally get to that point.

Say, I have been meaning to ask. Are you doing any prep to the metal parts prior to painting? I have painted a few items, and the paint flakes right off. I would have thought that washing (in soapy water) and rinsing would be enough. I have not been priming, perhaps that is the problem?

Steve, I look forward to seeing your walnut planking! How will you finish it?

~Clay

Clayton,
Painting has proven to be a real pain. I find that unless I thin the paint considerable it looks globby at this small scale. I have used primer on some of the castings but where ever I could I just used a black Sharpie. The only problem I encountered (as you brought up earlier) is that the CA liquifieds the ink again and can cause purple staining. I've had to touch some things up becuase of it. Any metal that gets painted and then handled with tweezers or such will need to be repainted. With the Sharpie, it holds up pretty well.
Chuck,
Thanks for the comment. I find that time flies and generally an intended hour ends up becoming two! Now that golf season has ended (for the most part) I have more time to work on it.
Mike

Last night I made all of the aft deck structures, I don’t think that they turned out too bad. It was getting late by the time that I finished the skylight; after gluing the roof on I realized that I had forgotten to give it any camber. I am not sure if it is worth redoing or not. I still have to sand the bottom to get it to fit the contour of the deck, so I might just re-do the roof then.

I followed Chuck’s advice by using clear packing tape for the skylight glass; it looks pretty good. But I used gray paint instead of black, just to add a little variety to the color. I used thin styrene to separate the windows so that it would not look too bulky.

And the trim around the base of each structure was much easier than I thought it would be. I just painted a large piece of manila folder before cutting the 1/32” strip off of it. Then I cut a long piece and glued it one a little at a time, wrapping it around the structure instead of cutting a piece for each side.

It seems like the traveler blocks are way out of scale. Would they be that large in real-life? If they were any smaller I wouldn’t be able to work with them though, that’s for sure. I can’t figure out how to trim the thread closer to the knots holding the blocks on. Does anyone have a good technique for that?

~Clay

http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/data/706/phantom_structures_01.jpg

Clayton

It looks fantastic. Use a nail clipper to trim that knot. It needs to be a sharp pair. glue on the rigging line also helps to make it brittle and easier to snip with the nail clippers.

chuck

Thanks for the compliment and the tip Chuck; I will get a new pair of clippers just for trimming knots. I did put a touch of CA on the knots after tying them off, so I bet that they are brittle.

~Clayton

Holy Cow Clayton! Your Phantom looks AWESOME! Man, it makes me want to either burn mine or start over! I've never seen such clean structures before. You must have toothpicks for fingers. Keep up the good work.
I've just finished the foremast and am finding that making/installing eyebolts of such small scale is time consuming and frustrating. I need to take some time off!!!
Mike

Daniel,

The Phantom will be my first project, too.

I have just completed getting the keel length correct and have place my guidelines on the flat bottom of the keel. So far, so good. I made a small block jig to screw into the deck so that I can mount the hull into my vise. That made a big difference with the sanding and carving.

I am now working on making the keel width 1/8" of an inch wide. I am about half way done ... just a little more at the stern end to go, then I start moving forward from the middle of the keel.

This site is great! I hope everyone will keep sharing experiences and post questions and answers. It is making this hobby/passion that much more fun to do!

Lloyd

Hey Mike, I don't think that either one of us is doing a better or worse job with the Phantom. Quite frankly I admire how quickly you are moving along with your build. Are you going to post some more pics soon? Half of the fun of this is seeing what other people are up to.

Mike, are you having to make eyebolts because you ran out of those supplied in the kit? Or are they the wrong size? I might be taking some time off as well; it is going to be a busy couple of weeks coming up.

Steve, I sure like your idea for cutting the copper tape. I will give that a try when I finally get back to working on my Cutty Sark; the kit I have is about the same scale as the Phantom.

Welcome to the thread Lloyd!!!

Holy Cow Clayton! Your Phantom looks AWESOME! Man, it makes me want to either burn mine or start over! I've never seen such clean structures before. You must have toothpicks for fingers. Keep up the good work.
I've just finished the foremast and am finding that making/installing eyebolts of such small scale is time consuming and frustrating. I need to take some time off!!!
Mike

I see that there have been a few votes for the Sultana as a possible next kit. I am thinking about that as well. Not only is it a cool looking schooner and affordable, but our friend Chuck has mad a practicum for that kit as well. And if it is possible to improve upon something like the Phantom practicum, he has done so with the Sultana. It is in 8 parts, totals 36.4mb, and is very instructive. He even shows how to plank part of the hull to improve the look of the kit. Seems like a good next step for learning the hobby.

If any of you are curious, I would recommend checking the Sultana Practicum out. And there is a decent Sultana reproduction website as well.

Sultana:
http://www.modelexpo-online.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe?FNM=00&T1=MS2016CM&UID=2006110315341313&UREQA=1&TRAN85=N&GENP=

Guide:
http://205.234.234.99/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=97

Page:
http://www.sultanaprojects.org/schoonersultana.htm