Clay, I bought some small black beads at Michaels & although they are kinda glossy they look fine. I installed the beads by threading a piece of black thread thru one eyebolt and then threaded both ends thru the beads (before mounting gaff). When I mounted the gaff I then put one end of the thread thru the other eyebolt and tied ends together. It actually went pretty smooth. I hope to post some photos of my finished boat soon.
Dennis

Hey guys,
Speaking of the gaffs, I am curious how to get the eyebolts in them. I had no problem drilling holes in the ends of the main boom jaws, but the gaff jaws are so much thinner. I am making eyebolts smaller than the ones that came with the kit, but they still seem too large for such a little jaw. I am thinking about just gluing the bolt to the bottom of the jaw. Has anyone had any success with this?

Dennis, thanks for the tip, and looking forward to seeing pictures of your Phantom. I should be posting some this weekend myself – getting close to being done. Are you working on the Sultana? I am curious what you think of the kit/instructions.

~Clay

Clay, Just starting Sultana. Crarving hull now for planking. It's a slow process but is do-able (is this a word?). Chucks practicum is pretty clear so far. I have had to ask him a couple of questions & he has been great to answer.
Dennis

Clay, Regarding the eyebolts in the gaff jaws, I made eyeblots out of 28 ga wire and ca them into hole. Worked Ok for me (I did split one jaw but glued it back & it stayed.
Dennis

Dennis,
Did you use 1mm thick wood for the gaff jaws? I have made a couple of attempts, but they break easy. The 2mm just seems too thick though...

Clay, I used 2mm thick and I think it looks good. I laid out the jaws on the wood with the opening at edge of board & drilled holes for eyebolts before cutting jaws out.
dennis

Ahh, good idea Dennis. I will try that.

Thought that I should add a couple of pictures while I am here. I rigged the main boom last night, it went pretty easy although I did have a heck of a time getting the line through the block in front of the traveler. I would recommend to anyone not to this point yet to start at the bollard with this line and then run it through the other block before adding the boom.

Guess my footropes are a little too snug, but I don’t think it looks too bad. Now to the gaffs….

~Clay


http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/data/706/013mainboom01.JPG

Looks great Clay. I Hope to post some photos sometime soon. I agree about the traveler block, but hey it was a good learning experience. I accomplished things I didn't think possible at first.
Dennis

Thanks for the complement Dennis.

The subject of missing blocks has come up before (I am sure that Mike [imforgvn] mentioned making some) and now I am running into the same problem. After closely examining the plans last night I found that the kit is short about 20 single blocks. A few weeks ago I ordered some triple blocks but they look too big and clunky on the model. And they are pretty poor quality too. This same issue is being discussed in other threads right now.
( Blocks (http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread2768.html) )

So anyhow, I made some single blocks last night and they turned out halfway decent, so I might try making some better triple blocks as well. It took quite awhile to make the singles, not sure if I am going about it the best way possible. I started with 1mm square stock, filed grooves down two opposing sides, drilled the holes, then did a little sanding before cutting of each block. Is this how most people make them? Or perhaps there is a better way?

~Clay

Hi Clay!

Yep, your basically doing the right thing working with your 1mm stock. There are some variances to the process but you do what works for you. Somewhere in the Phantom thread I listed a whole bunch of items that came up short or not to scale in which the modeler would be advised to order from Model-Expo. I did the same thing with the blocks, ended up making my own triple blocks and turnbuckles. Also ordered more singles and doubles to cover the shortage. Model-Expo made good on the blocks at no charge. They aren't the best quality but they worked out OK with my Phantom.
I've been moving along with my Bluenose, just finished painting the hull, and now working on deck fixtures. I decided to replace all of my blocks on the Bluenose with those made by Lloyd Warner of Warner Woods West. Check out the thread on Blocks as to how to get Lloyd's blocks. What a difference in the quality of blocks. You can see them here with the last photo I downloaded.
Looks like you'll be done soon with your Phantom! Where do you go from here?

Hi Clay and other denizens of Phantom land!

Clay, she's looking real good! I bet you didn't even break one topmast!
I thought I'd weigh in on the missing blocks and the gaff jaws. I resorted to coating everything in CA before I cut/drilled them. It prevented things from splitting pretty well. I must admit, making the blocks sucked and they just didn't look right, even after I painted them black.
I've taken some time off from the Ben Latham to build a J-boat for the Herreshoff museum in my home town. I am getting around to painting some of the cast fittings and am just not happy with the paint not sticking and looking "globby." What is the best way to prepare them and what is the best paint to use?
Thanks and always a pleasure...
Mike

Hey Steve,

The other day I looked at the picture of blocks that you uploaded. In fact I printed it out and had it on my desk last night while working on making my own blocks. It’s interesting that you are discussing Lloyd Warner in that thread. Just the other day I heard about him from another modeler. He said that Warner Woods West is the only place to get scale rope from, and from your picture his blocks look fantastic.

Not sure where I am going from here. I am considering three paths: Model Expo’s Sultana, Artesania Latina’s San Francisco (waiting on the shelf), or a scratch build cross-section of HMS Victory. Right now I am leaning toward the scratch build cross-section.

Mike,

Thanks, and you’re right: I didn’t break a topmast, but that is only thanks to learning from those who have gone before me! I have had the same problem with paint, but have heard that the brand makes a difference. Several people have recommended the brand Floquil (http://www.testors.com/brand_category.asp?brandNbr=2). They make enamel and acrylic, not sure if that matters when painting metal.

Clay,
Warner Woods West is not the only place to get scale rope from. Warner is the only place that I have baught it from so far...

Maybe other members can give some adresses to sites where they have baught their rigging line.

Clayton

Still, plugging away – I have recently completed and rigged the main gaff. After so many people mentioned looking at a craft store for parrals I thought that I should give it a try. I did find some very small matte-finish beads that are much better than what I had before.

Also, just today came across a picture in our kind host’s (wirewolf) photo gallery that shows a method for making blocks. Link (http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/showphoto951.html)

http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/showphoto951.html

~Clay

Well fellows, I am just about done with my Phantom! After adding some rope coils, touching up the paint, and making a ‘Pilot’ flag that should be it (except for making the case, and….).

I have a vague memory of a model/picture of similar contemporary pilot boat that had a large white flag, with a blue “P” on it. Has any one seen that? I have been trying to recall where I saw that so that I can use it as a pattern to make one. The flags that came with Chuck’s practicum sure are nice!

~Clay

Clay,
Very nice looking model! I really like the flags. I am hoping to get some good advice on making flags for my Wasa once the time comes since that is something that I am not too good at. Unlike most other aspects of model building it is not something you get a lot of practice with either.

Best of luck on your next build! :peace:

Clayton

I'm just beginning this model and am currently carving the hull. As I look a few steps ahead, beyond attaching the keel stem and stern, painting and coppering the hull, etc, I see that I will soon come to shaping the deck. Chuck's practicum and the kit instructions both mention sanding the proper deck camber, but I don't see anything on the plans indicating what the profile of the camber ought to be. Chuck mentions measuring the height of the bulwarks, which is obviously on the plans, but that will only help in determining how far down to sand near the bulwarks. The kit instructions mention cutting a template of the camber, but doesn't say where to get the correct profile. I don't see it on the plans. The closest thing I see is on the detail drawing for the companionway, which is at an odd angle, and not in scale. Anyone have any advice?

I sanded the camber based on the height of the bulwarks from the plans, however I goofed on the aft deck and had to remove the cap rail and add a piece of wood too increase the bulwarks height, I got carried away with worrying too much about the camber. Thus I recommend that as you sand check & recheck the bulwark height. Always easier to sand down than to add wood.
dennis

When I wrote that practicum it was to be used as the actual study guide for a class I was teaching. These folks never built a house of cards never mind a ship model. So I decided not to dwell on that subject. I simply directed them to make sure the deck wasnt flat. I told then to make sure there was even camber and to check the bulwark height because it was easier to judge from one side to the other.

I would however create a template of the camber and use it to check its consistancy. This was a step I could skip with these folks considerring the number of weeks in the class. The camber shouldnt be severe and I can not remember off hand (I am at work) if the plans show it. I believe there is one illustration showing the main mast from a front view with the spreaders and the deck camber is clearly visible.

The only thing you have to worry about is creating multiple templates as the width of the deck changes from bow to stern. The camber will stay constant the entire length. Use a center line down your deck as a guide and match it to a center line on each template.

Chuck

Thanks Chuck.
So in the absence of a guideline on the plan, what is the critical measurement to keep consistent? I assume it must be the radius of the arc created by the deck, and not the height difference from centerline to bulwark. Wouldn't make much sense to have a constant height difference, especially in the bow. Having never had to deal with this on a model before (camber was built in to the bulkheads on my first model), I'm not sure with how severe the camber ought to be. I would imagine it must be pretty slight. Phantom is 20' beam, I believe, and I would guess the height difference is probably less than a foot, right? Templates would be easy to make for any width of the deck, given the arc radius.

If we can estimate the height difference, the radius is easy to calculate...if my trig is correct.
Width at beam = b
height at beam = h
radius of arc = r
(b/2)^2=2rh-h^2
solving for r is messy to type, but would be r=((b/2)^2+h^2)/2h
Assuming the height difference is one foot, that gives a radius of 50.5' which in scale would be about 6.3 inches. So, are there any guidelines on common deck camber dimensions?

Yes, you are correct, sir. On the rigging plan sheet, on the far left there IS a diagram of the mast, spreaders and deck camber. I overlooked it several times...thanks, Chuck.

Just one question, looking at the plans, sails are on the plans. Has anyone built it with sails? Just curious.

There are a few photos (http://gallery.drydockmodels.com/phantom) in DDM's gallery of a model built back when MS used resin hulls. The builder rigged her with furled sails, which I think look great. I rigged my first model with blown sails, and was considering doing the Phantom with furled sails, but we'll see whether I can get it done within the 6 month window. :wink:

At this scale, I wouldn't have to worry about stitching the seams, which ought to save some time and effort.

Interesting tidbit...the DDM photos also have a posting (http://forum.drydockmodels.com/viewtopic.php?t=1346) from the builder. In it he says that the cockpit floor ought to be a couple scale feet below the quarterdeck. I imagine MS left this detail out with the neophyte modeler in mind. I haven't gotten to the deck yet, so I may consider correcting this oversight.

Are there any other knowledgeable people out there who can back this up?

Just came across another site (http://homepage3.nifty.com/shiphome/phantom/phantom-page2.htm) with photos of a scratch built Phantom diorama rigged with full sails. The craftsmanship on this model is stunning. I've seen dioramas with pretty good looking water, but nothing like this. Wow.

Scale is 1/48.