I am building my first kit. The plans call for single planking the hull, yet i see a lot of models on this site double planked. What are the reasons for double compared to single. Is one better than the other?
Thanks

Well, I don't know about the rest of the folks , but double planking gives me
a chance to cover up my mistakes! :(
So, it is better for me. :lol:
Jerry G (Glickstein) :realcool:


I'm definitely with you that one Jerry! I know the second planking helped me a lot because I had LOTS of mistakes to cover up on my first build! LOL

If it wasn't for the second layer of planking my model would have more closely resembled a shipwreck!!!

Briefly, if you put one layer of planks on frames, you follow the real-life construction techniques, (providing the frames are as in the real ship) and if two, you accept the usual kit manufacturers´ practice, where the first planking forms only a base for the actual planking.

Plank-on-bulkhead kits often contain two layers of planks. I´d say they are needed here because the bulkheads, call them frames if you like, are usually placed so far apart that it is difficult to get a smooth hull without some kind of support. The second layer also nicely hides the mistakes you may have done before the finish planking.

Is one better than the other? Well, that depends..

Double planking?
Two chances to practice "Getting it right!!"
I must admit, although it may seem tedious, it is enjoyable to do it twice.... (As the actress said to the bishop....)

Cheers....HOF.

Hi falconsfan55,

I notice that it is the Bluenose by Model Shipways that you are referring to. As far as I see it, a very good choice, and you would get a lot of helpful advice if you were to join the Shared Projects topic, Calling all Bluenosers.

Part of the reason this kit calls for single planking, is because Model Shipways is more geared towards the advance ship-modeler, and the more correct methods of shipbuilding. But, that doesn't mean that beginners can't build them. For one, the wood supplied is not hard to work with, and the plans are usually first rate, this is my opinion.

In the past, all the ship-models that I built were double-planked, which was nice for covering up the mistakes that I made on the first layer. The ship that I'm now currently working on, is also from Model Shipways. It really worried me when I found out it was only single-planked, but now that I've made it through it, it has become my preferred method.

Both methods look equally nice when completed, it's just a matter of finding out which one you like the best, couldn't really say whether one is better than the other. The one thing nice about double-planking is that the nice wood used for the second layer, can be better stained or varnished, where as the single-layer works fine for painting and copper-plating.

Regards,
Gerald :build:

I am building my first kit. The plans call for single planking the hull, yet i see a lot of models on this site double planked. What are the reasons for double compared to single. Is one better than the other?
Thanks

Hi all
With kits that use bulkhead and double planking, the first layer give you clean lines, the secound greater strength.
When using frames, the frames give the hull clean lines and the planks give the hull strenght.

Even today a lot of wooden boat/ships use both methods.
The last boat I built was 65ft long and requied frame 4ft apart, and 3 layers. total thinkness 4".

Andrew
Retired Master Shipwright.

I need to echo and agree with what the others have said. The 2nd layer is good for covering any mistakes made with the first. Another point is that ships planking seldom if ever reached more then 24' so scale planks would be less then 6 inches long in 1:48 scale. It's tuff to get the planks to fit correctly on a plank on Bulkhead (POB). The bulkheads are normally not spaced correctly. Using scale planks with POB makes it difficult for you to get the correct plank support and the correct repeat pattern because again there is no support. If you want to use scale planks and the correct plank repeats you only have a few options. 1. Double plank. this allows the 1st layer of planking to support the 2nd so you don't have to worry about where the bulkheads are. 2. Use fillers between the bulkheads so you have something to support the 1st and only planking. 3. add bulkheads to provide the support. Myself, I find double planking relaxing. It allows me to spend more time working on my ship.
Mike

I prefer single layer planking, that way I can get it done and go on to the next step.
Ron W.

I will double plank the MS Bluenose I am working on (progress delayed by the World Cup). Mike's posting bring out an important point about the length of the planks. This was mentioned in the instruction manual of the kit which says something to the effect that because of the spacing of the frames, the planks will not be of the correct scale length and it is not possible to have the correct joint pattern. Although it was not mentioned in the instruction, I suspect that similar problem will occur with the deck planking because the kit was not designed with a false deck.
We are model makers, not shipbuilders. Our aim is to create a model within our skill which has as near as possible the same outward appearance as the real object. To achieve this end, to follow the practice of building the full scale ship might not yield the best result. Last Chirstmas my son bought me the Charles Morgan, also by MS. I have a good look at it and was surprised to see that material for the second planking is an optional extra. This kit is billed as an advanced model. If MS is aware of the problem with Bluenose, which is rated intermediate, surely people building at advanced level will not be happy with the incorrect plank length and will do something about it; which is to pay for the optional extra. The conclusion I came to is that the single layer planking with some MS kits is to minimise cost, nothing to do with 'technique as in real ship building'. Another point about technique used in real ship building is how to spill a strake. The technique mentioned in the Bluenose instruction is to use a pair of campass to lift the shape of the plank to be spilled following the porfile of the strake adjacent to it. This might be the way in real ship building, but for model making, I think it is very much easier and more accurate to stick a piece of masking tape along the stake which one want to lift the shape then rub pencil over the edge of the strake to get the correct curve.

Just some thoughts on my mind

best regards

Apprentice

Jerry, if you had enough wood under your planks, you wouldn´t have to worry about their length.. : )

Double planking is not a bad idea because it only hides the mistakes of the builder but first of all the basic fault of the kit manufacturer, namely the limited number of frames. The term "double planking" is actually pretty vague - in my vocabulary it means that there are planks on both sides of the frame..

using single planking instead of double can be a slow process, mainly because as you are laying the planks, each plank should be angled to the next plank. very hard not to make mistakes but possible. blend to the curvature. have just finished this phase. time to start rear galleries.

That's cheating :teach:
:whistle: But who's going to know...
Mike

Hi Mike,
In regard to scale length of planks.....
some modelers plank full length of the hull and then scribe, indent, etc
to simulate accurate lengths....
Is that "legal"? :yikes:
Jerry G (Glickstein) :realcool:

I would think single or double planking depends on the model for example I am getting ready to build the 1/35 scale J boat Endevour. I was planning to only single plank it then cover the hull in fiberglass and sand until it's correctly sahaped and then paint it as the original was. The original has a aluminum hull so the planking should not be seen. On AMERICA she was a wooden hull and the run of the planking would be clearly visable after she was painted black so I double planked her to have a good representation of the original. So I think it depends on what the original looked like and how it was made.

Might as well add my two cents worth.

Read these two articles:To quote the Ship Modelers FAQ:
'A museum quality ship model is whatever a museum director accepts for a museum collection' from this article - What exactly does ‘Museum Quality' mean? (http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=52)

Article by Essay by Eugene L. Larson in the Nautical Research Journal:Although the intent of the article was "an attempt to better define scratch building as a category, it does not presume that the scratch-built model is the ultimate in model building. Scratch-built models fit into a classification that does not necessarily imply a level of excellence, The greatest claim for scratch building is the modeler's self-satisfaction that he or she did it all".Reprint - Scratch Building Criteria (http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=22)

A modeler should do what makes him happy. If you like double planking, for what ever reason, that's fine.

In my recent talks with the Director of the The American Merchant Museum, Mr. Dennis Fanucchi (arranging for when I'll come in to photograph items in the museum), we discussed this topic of ''museum quality''. He said the term is very subjective. What makes an item qualify to be placed into a museum has more to do with it's historic value, it's general representation as to the over all theme of a museum, and most of all, can the museum afford to buy the item! Or if it's donated, afford to have it packed and shipped. To paraphrase the quote above, he said, ''If I like it, it goes on display''.

He recently had to have a ship model sent down to Washington, DC. It cost about $2,500 for a ''Fine Arts'' shipping company to come in, carefully crate the item, and then deliver it to DC. He gets offers for donated items (most museums try to get donations when they can) all the time. However, the cost of having a item shipped can be prohibitive. Most museums operate on a very tight budget.

So what does to have to do with single/double planking? A ship model is a representation of a vessel, real or imagined. There is a particular ship model in the museum's collection I'm thinking of that is a good illustration of this point. Dennis said that the model was donated many years ago and no one knows the who the model shipwright was. It's about 130 years old. He's not even sure of the ships name (it looks like a typical clipper of that era). If you look at the model closely, from a technical approach, it's pretty damn bad model making. But take a step back and it draws you in and you feel like you've gone back in time. It has a quality that one can not explain.

When you walk into the display room where it's located, it draws your attention right away. Is it single or double planked? Is the rigging to most accurate? Who cares. On the other side of this room is a model of a merchant container ship. Technically it's perfect in every detail. But it kind of looks unreal. It's too perfect.

The point is, the unknown modeler did the best he could with what he had and perhaps was quite pleased with his creation, or maybe not. But his model is now sitting in a museum for all to see and marvel.

As the lady once said, standing in an art museum, ''I don't know art, but I know what I like''

If you like to single or double plank your hull, you are the ultimate judge. It's your ship. You are the shipwright. Maybe you don't know art either, but I'm sure you know what you like. Remember, ''It's a hobby, not a job''. Have fun and enjoy.

John

PS; More like a $1.50 worth than two cents. :teach: