Planking the hull, running the planks (Part Four)
Planking the hull - by [RG] CC++
(Click on the thumbnails to view full size image)
Completing the planking

Due to using small planks, repair on the hull are easy. When a certain plank becomes damaged during the planking process, then simply remove it and place a new one.

Here is a picture of such a repair:

When the second layer of planks is finished the hull must be cleaned of all glue residue. Use a wet rag and give the hull a good scrub, when the hull dries you can see the glue stains which show up fogged by the water. It is important that the hull is free of these stains, because the glue stains will also fog when applying the varnish.

If the hull is to be trunneled then do not sand it yet, but leave it rough until all the tree nails are inserted. Here a list of pictures showing the rough second layer of planking.

Here is a picture of the second planking:

Here is a close-up of the stern, the picture is flipped over:

Here is a close-up of the bow, the picture is flipped over:

Here is a close-up of the mid ship butt ends:

Trunneling the hull

For extra detail, the hull can be trunneled. In fact this is almost identical to the trunneling of the deck. All the planks are fastened to the first layer by pushing wood pegs through them, along the circumference of the frame. I am not sure what trunneling pattern is used, most of the modeling books are not very clear about this subject. You can find models using a single peg or two pegs in different patterns.

I will use the same pattern as used on the deck, so a two peg diagonal pattern. This pattern is found on the ships a visited, but you have to decide for yourself what pattern to use.

For pegs use the party sticks also used on the deck, they are cheap and fast to produce. However, you can also make your own pegs by running dowels through a drawing plate.

To prevent the planks from chipping, it is advised to run a piece of transparent tape over the butt ends before drilling the holes. You can even draw the frame again on the tape to locate the position of the pegs.

Here is a picture of the tape and the frame. The tape prevent the planks from chipping while drilling the holes:

All the holes are drilled by hand, if you use a motorized drill, there is a chance that the planks get ruined by a unfortunate move.

Here is a picture showing the holes, they are drilled through the tape:

When the holes are drilled, the tape can be removed showing the clean holes in which the pegs can be inserted.

Here a picture showing the holes:

Now the pegs can be inserted. Use a drop of white glue to fill the hole, then dilute the peg in the same glue. Insert the peg in the hole and turn it around a few times, then give it a good push.

Here a picture of all the pegs in this frame:

When the glue is dry, the pegs can be cut to hull level. Because the planks get smaller in width when progressing to the bow, smaller holes must be drilled in order to keep to the same pattern for all the frames.

Besides that the trunneling adds some detail to the model, they firmly attach the second layer of planks to the first layer of planks. This way the chance that planks come loose from the model is minimal.

The pegs are expanding, because they absorb the glue, and plug the hole. The drilling of holes is easy because the drill meets only the first and second layer of planks, and not a real frame.

Here a extreme close up of how things look on the inside of the hull:

Another extreme close up on the pegs:

I was concerned about the structural integrity of the hull after drilling so many holes, but the hull does not seem to suffer from the trunneling. The pegs and the glue fill the hole, due to the conical shape they cause stress on the surface of the hull, making the hull more resistant on sudden impacts.

Here a picture of the hull, while the trunneling progresses:

Notice on the pictures that all the pegs meet up at the keel and the deck, circumventing the entire hull.

Because of the repetitive work involved it is wise too alternate between jobs.

After all the pegs have been inserted the hull must be cleaned from all glue residue. First give the hull a quick sand, then rub all the glue residue surrounding the pegs. It is important that all the glue is removed. When the hull is wet and drying you can see the glue stains because they stand out white.

When the hull is clean you can sand it, until all the pegs are flush with the hull.

Here are the final pictures concerning the planking phase.

Here a close-up on the stern:

Here a close-up on the hull, notice that the deck pegs line up with the hull pegs:

Here a picture of the finished planking:

The hull can now be finished. I hope this thread helped you in some way.

Click here to download the full size images

Some after thoughts on the detailing

Remember that trunneling the hull is optional, you can leave it out. I am no expert, this is my second build, adding detail is no guarantee for a successful model. It is up to the builder what detail to add or leave out.

For instance: I know my deck planking is probably to wide, because I use the wood supplied with the kit which is 5mm wide. The kit suppliers use the same wood over a range of kits regardless the scale. Also my nails might be to big for this model, I didn't check it.

But I am happy with the way it turns out, you build the model for yourself not for others, so don't bother with the details if you don't want to. Leaving out details does not mean the model will be inferior, maybe it will even be more beautiful than a model with a lot of detail. In the end it is the builders skill that counts, not the number of cannons.

What I want to say is, don't believe blindly all the advise of the so called "experts" including myself. Build the model the way you think is comfortable, building a wooden ship is for fun not to impress others because there will always be someone better than you and I.

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All finished, next. Lol.

If you have any questions or suggestions regarding this thread feel free to ask.
I will finish with : "Build what you like, like what you build".

Questions

user from the DDM
Just a quick question regarding your wooden nails (aka round toothpicks , which although make a very striking and attractive model may be a bit out of scale?. What scale is that Scottish Maid that you are using in your hull planking practicum? The reason I ask is that if it's, let's say 1/64 scale, and assuming a typical wooden "nail" was say 2 inches (totally not sure but seems that even 2 inches would be a bit large) then that would mean that on a 1/64 model the wooden peg would have to be 0.03125 inches in diameter - hardly discernable to the human eye I would guess.

Don't get me wrong the planking job you did was magnificent but I'm just wondering about scaling and the wooden "nails" used in your practicum... they just seem a little too large diameter wise... Just wondering for scale and authenticity if leaving such details out would be a more appropriate approach?


Very good question "X". The models shown in the practicum is of scale 1:50.
I drilled 1mm holes for the pegs, so the diameter of the peg in real life would be 50x1mm = 50mm. This is ok for the wooden pegs, they were considerably larger in diameter than metal nails. Further to the bow and the stern I drilled respectively. 0.8mm and 0.5mm to keep the same pattern for the tapered section of the hull.

The hull you see on the pictures is unfinished, colored stains will be used on the hull when it is completed, blending the nails and the planking towards the stain color.

The pegs have another important purpose : they fix the second layer of planks to the first layer of planks, making it impossible for a plank to become detached may the white glue bond ever fail.

It is advised to pin everything to the model, acting as a backup fixture to the glue bond.

At some point you have to decide what accuracy and details you want for the model. Making everything in scale and adding every detail is great, but it increases the building time, skill and knowledge required. I am by all means still a beginner in ship building, so it is better for me to build some models "out the box" adding detail as I learn about period ship construction.

I am happy that I could help. I wish you all the best with the project , and I hope you have found this series helpful. [RG] C++ (Nico)

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